petek, 6. december 2013

Nationals and some good sends outdoor

After a hard bouldering season I decided to climb some "easier" routes, just to make my body feel rested. So I avoid all the harder and short routes. I thought Mišja is the best for this style I was actually looking for and that's why I sent most of the routes there. So I'll just start with my best send, which is my third 8b on sight in my entire life. That was Rocket Max 8b and I'm also very happy for another on sight in Granuille 8a both in Kompanj. And here is the list of my 8a's and up from last month: Triad 8a, Bastilla 8a+, Figaro 8a+, Lucky Luke 8b, Chiquita 8b/b+, Soul kitchen 8b(+), JSFK 8b, Bastilla 8b+ and Sanje za dušo 8b+.

I also won the last national boulder cup, but unfortunately ended on 3rd place overall cuz I skipped one of two competitions(I was competing in Arco rock master).

 Soul kitchen 8b(+), Kompanj, photo: Matej Sova


ponedeljek, 18. november 2013

Two 8b+ and World cup in lead

When I heard a news about me going to world cup in Kranj, I decided to get some endurance. Of course it's not as easy as it sounds (specially for boulderer), but at least I tried. I said I am ready for the world cup when I climb one of my old project in Mišja peč. Must say that I though I'm ready when I sent Millenium 8b+ (which is, by the way the longest route in Mišja) and did some endurance trainings, but I got pumped anyway. I wasn't really angry, but I know I could do it much better, if I wanted to compete in lead. Before Kranj finals we went to Mišja again and I really surprised my self with doing Kaj ti je deklica? 8b+ in only few tries. I also on sighted 7b+ and 7c.

ponedeljek, 4. november 2013

Macedonia 2013

A bus full of climbers left to Macedonia previous weekend. On the whole trip I only had one rest day. We developed a lot of new lines and cut a lot of bushes around. So Vezi and I sent some nice first ascents like Zlata plošča 7c, Mini atmosfera 8a and Joži ga namočo 7b+. And I'm also very happy cause I was first who repeated Kilian's  Kula sheika bula 8a+ and Velika smetka 8a. I also flashed and sent some 7c's. Of course, we left some project for others when they come.

Zlata plošča

Joži ga namočo and undone line

photo: pipo

Puter in marmelada 7c                                                                                                 Šarap 7c+

horse races                                                                                                              Julija in Welcome line

Puter in marmelada


Brand new car

no comment

Neža in some warming up

Žolta zmija 7c


Julija in Žolta zimja

Movie from Kula sheika bula by pipo:

petek, 25. oktober 2013

New lines in Ožbalt

Yesterday I joined my friends from Koroška, to climb in their local crag Ožbalt. They cleaned up a new block, where Rok Klančnik did a first ascent in Out of space (8a). Later I flashed it and than we moved to another spot. We tried an old project on Krimpzeit block. It starts on the same hold as Krimpzeit and than it goes right. I needed few tries to send it and decided to give it a name Trnova krona. Later Rok had repeat it and we graded it 8a.

Trnova krona (8a)

ponedeljek, 21. oktober 2013

Suomi and some climbing

I've been very busy last month, so I'm giving you some news from my experience around the world and Slovenia. Last week I visited my very good friend in Finland to help her in new gym in Helsinki. Because the wall wasn't ready yet, Eva and I were helping whit some finishing works. Later on I could set some boulders on which I'm very proud of. So if somebody goes to Finland, should go to their new gym and try new wall and boulders. I hope they will be open soon, otherwise you should go and climb outdoors. I'm say, that went outdoors for sever times and felt really weak on these small grant holds, which doesn't mean the boulders aren't nice. It's actually opposite, they are very beautiful including landscapes.


Angry birds shop

 new gym

Having fun during work

little creation

Eva the worker


me too

boulder in forest

...and blueberries

...and some mushrooms

don't wanna know what happened later

Henna's lazy cat

more work

but fun work

Henna trying first boulder in new gym

yes, I set it

trying the Globalist

This trip inspired me to go to Rogla and open new lines. I opened 3 new line. The best one is definitely Suomi graded 7a. Before and after Finland I visited areas around Osp and sent few hard routes. In Pandora I sent easy but long route Es ist vollbracht (8b+) and on sighted 7c+, in Mišja peč I sent Natural link (8c), Lahko noč, Irena (8b), Ptičja perspektiva (8a+) and on sighted Galaktika (8a/a+).

Suomi 7a(+)

Punka (P)

Keskus 7b(+)

ponedeljek, 30. september 2013

Jake in Sopota

After 2 weeks of resting I went outside to climb some. So on friday I visited my old friend Kotečnik, where I sent some routes that I haven't done yet. I was climbing in the most "slaby" sector named Kača. I sent 5 routes from 7a+ to 7c. The next day was a bit rainy, so we went to Sopota. This rock stays dry for a longer after and during rain. There are some boulders on the bottom of cliff so first I sent a long standing project. As other names of boulders here, I named it after a human name. It is graded 8a+ and it is named by my nephew Jake. Later on, I tried my very nice project. It's gonna be really hard, but so far, I did it in 2 parts. Fingers cross for a soon ascent.

In time, P ( 8c+ (9a) )

During the rest, I also cleaned up a new boulder on Rogla. Around 5 lines on it and I didn't even tried them. So everybody feel free to try it!

ponedeljek, 16. september 2013

Winner of adidas ROCK STARS

And it finally happened!!! First time made it to the podiums and for the first time felt, how it's be like on the top of the best climbers in the world. After not so good climbing in qualification, I put my self together and showed really good performance in semi finals. I almost climbed all 4 boulders but still ended on 2nd place. In final round I was really motivated, so with some luck, tricks and power I was first who pressed the button on the very last final boulder. It was really amazing feeling standing on the top of the last boulder with knowing you won the competition in front of such a huge audience. Can't wait for next season cause I now what I'm capable of now. Thumbs up for adidas team again!

full story and videos:

some power and speed...

some tricks...

a bit lucky but still strong

 a bit emotional as commentators said