sreda, 8. januar 2014

My hardest multi pitch so far!

In the whole story from Spain, I didn't mention one of my biggest success of my life. On the first day of this year, I hardly convince my very good friend and alpinist Bojan Hribernik to go with me and try really hard multi pitch. The name of the route is Ortega- Camacho and it's located in Montsant. It's not really the longest route in the world, but it was still a challenge, cause it was on sight attempt and cause the last 2 pitches were the hardest. First 2 led Alpi (6c+,6b+) and the other 2 were mine. It was still creepy for me, even though I had all the quickdraws in. So the third pitch was the hardest and it was graded 8a. After that I was really happy but still nervous, cause I had to on sight another 7c+ pitch, which was very overhanging. I was really scared, but still managed to climb last one too. I'm really proud now and I got some motivation for more hard multi pitches in the future. After all, this might be the hardest Slovenian on sight multi pitch. If somebody knows this information, let me know.

 actually we started in wrong route, so first pitch was even harder               me and Alpi after hardest pitch       

on the top of the wall(from left: me,Alpi, Škofic and Bečko), Bečko and Škofic climbed another easyer multi pitch 

torek, 7. januar 2014

End of the old and beginning of the new year!

First, happy new year to everybody who read my blog! I'm writing now about my ascents which have happened around new year in Spain and also on home ground. Before new year's trip I visited Mišja peč for the last time in old year and made a quick ascent in Vizija 8c and Uživancija 8a. So with really good motivation and good company I left to Spain. On the first day I was still tired from a long drive, but was still able to on sight Anabolica 8a and flash Un rato en cada postura 8a. From now on I have sent 9 routes with grade 8a (4 on sights an 2 flashes), one 8a+ which I marked as the best route in the world, 6 8b (two of them on sight) and my first 8c abroad  Los ultimos vampiros hippies which I sent in only 4 tries. I was also very close to Bumaye 8c+ which I managed to sent in 2 parts, but unfortunately ran out of climbing days.

Now 2 weeks of rest, than start to prepare for successful season.


vizija 8c

 more photos and video soon...