sreda, 28. november 2012

Some rope climbing again

For las few days I decited to cross form bouldering to rope climbing foe a while. But soon realized, that it's not really my style. Specially if you climb in Mišja peč, which is so polished. I wanted to climb Konec mira (8c/c+), but I almost hit the ground once, so I gave up. For a few times I did it with only one rest, but looks like I should rope climbing for a while, to get used on pumping. But I was quite suprised, cuz I sent Sreča vrtnice (8b) in second go (if you don't count one try few years ago) and Matrix (8b) in the same day. so I can say, I'm not the best route climber, but still can do something. I also on sighted Preobrazba graded 7c+.

sobota, 17. november 2012

100. 8aFb or more

Strassenblock traverse is my 100. 8a or more for me. Till today I had 97 climbed problems, but today I added 3 more. The team of 3 climbers (Bizi, Varga, me) went to a boulder spot near Graz called St. Radegund. Thanks to Pašo, we came to a very unusual forest with only 4 block in it. First we stopped at 8a dyno, first climbed by Loskot and named Free Engelbert. First I flashed the traverse, which Bizi and Varga also sent it, graded 7c. Than I gave a flash attempt in dyno, but unfotunately I touched a pad. If you ask my friends, they would say I didn't, but let be honest. So I sent it 3rd go. Later we moved, and I flashed Sunny side up(8a)  and did Strassenblock traverse (8a) in second go. Also Varga and Bizi sent it. Than we moved do another block, where Hinterm Busch und Gusch route is. I heard it's graded 8a, but with using all the holds you can grab, it's not more than 7c. I also tried this 8a+ on the same block, but without success. Below this block, I opened new line, named it Oh long Johnson and I put grade 7c+.

Strasseblock traverse

Hinterm Busch und Gusch 


petek, 16. november 2012

Chillen und grillen

Ok, I decited to write something about quite unknown place in Austria called Huatluckn. This year I already climbed few hard stuff there mostly on sight and flash, but for red pointing 8b's was to hard for me there. So on wednesday, I had no choice, but to try only dry, hard route named Grillen und chillen. Even this route wasn't completely dry. So when I tried to on sight the route, I thought it's impossible to get over it. I think, I've never tried one route for more than 5 tries in a day, but that day I was forced to keep trying it over and over again to get all micro betas. The route contains only few hard moves, but you have to do everything precisely. So I sent very hard route, which is 8b+ in my opinion (maybe just beacouse of horrible conditions) in 5th try that day.