tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-45350946328578740392024-03-05T01:41:55.344-08:00KrudrozaverKrudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.comBlogger92125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-21741311366315934312016-05-23T12:35:00.000-07:002016-05-23T12:35:57.797-07:00There is still hope for the podium!5 competitions, 5 semifinals and no finals for yet. After good training sessions and huge motivation, I was pretty sure I will do great this season. But unfortunately I never got the right flow in the semi final rounds. On my first comp in Meiringen I did few tries too much and also came really close on 3rd boulder, in Kazo also one try too much and also fell from the top on 3rd one, in Chongquing I also fell from one top, in Navi Mumbaj I honestly didn't find myself and here in Innsbruck fell again from 2 tops. I just can't believe same things are just repeating every time, but on the other hand I still feel fresh and strong, so I'll just keep my head up and do my best in Vail.<br />
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To keep a positive mind, I also went outdoor for some sport climbing. I visited places like Medveja, Baratro, Osp and also Maltatal. In Medveja I was able to <span style="color: cyan;">on sight Criogenetica 8a+</span>, <span style="color: cyan;">Venga vecjo 8a </span>and came really close to 8c flash. After warm up in Maltatal I <span style="color: cyan;">on sighted Marsch mellow kind 8a</span>, did <span style="color: cyan;">Soulstrip 8b</span> on my <span style="color: cyan;">second go</span> and also climbed the hardest route there, which in my opinion maybe isn't harder than <span style="color: cyan;">8b+(c)</span>, <span style="color: cyan;">Walhalla</span> also on my <span style="color: cyan;">second go</span>. After 3 visits to Baratro and around 7-8 tries in total, I managed to clip the first anchor of <span style="color: cyan;">Atilla 8c/c+</span>.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">BWC Meiringen</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">BWC Kazo</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">BWC Chongquing</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">BWC Navi Mumbaj</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">India at it's best</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">BWC Innsbruck</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Walhalla 8b+(c), Maltatal</span></div>
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<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-68942658979113882482016-04-04T13:24:00.001-07:002016-04-04T13:24:11.363-07:00Bloc comp and block ascentsIt was so good to be competing again and feeling very comfortable. In Pfungstadt, Germany there was an incredible competition called Blocmaters where I took <span style="color: cyan;">second place</span>. After ripping my rib muscle in qualification round I was still able to climb all 4 semi problems in very hard competition. By fleshing the first problem in finals I guaranteed my second place and unfortunately couldn't continue with my full force. This time Alexey Rubtsov was better than me, but I know I can change things to a bit better.<br />
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After my injury I had lots of therapies and soon I was able to touch some rock. For the first time it was in Maltatal for some sport climbing and the next time I was actually able to climb some hard things. In one day I sent <span style="color: cyan;">Der Imperator 8a </span>on my <span style="color: cyan;">second go</span>, <span style="color: cyan;">Emotional landscapes stand 8a+</span> and <span style="color: cyan;">Orgazmatron 8a</span>.<br />
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Today I went to new block in Kamniška Bistrica where I climbed all the existing lines:<br />
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- ?? 6b,<br />
- ?? 6c,<br />
- ?? 7a,<br />
- Če maš maš 7c flash,<br />
- Če maš maš sit 7c+,<br />
- Nimaš kej 8a second go,<br />
- No surrender policy 8a flash,<br />
- Bo že 7c flash,<br />
- ?? 7b flash,<br />
- Hiperborea 7c,<br />
- ?? 7b<br />
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Here is a clip from Maltatal:<br />
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<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-19540294356929714022016-03-16T09:38:00.002-07:002016-03-16T09:43:49.271-07:00Magic monthIt's incredible how combining outdoor and indoor climbing effects on my strengths. I train with my team approx. 2-3 times per week, other days I try to spend on rocks. When I go outdoors the sessions are not so long, but I'm really trying to climb on very hard things. And because I don't train too much on plastic, my mind is very calm. This is why I had such an incredible month. After my last trip to Switzerland I focused more on a specific route in Mišja peč and after few working days on it I was able to do one of the rare ascent in specific route called <span style="color: cyan;">Za staro kolo in majhnega psa 8c+</span>.<br />
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After that I found some free days and I decided to go back to Ticino. My goal was to try <span style="color: cyan;">Ninja skills 8b+ </span>for max 2 days and if the weather stays good maybe some tries in some other hard stuff. So on my first day I warmed up in <span style="color: cyan;">Ninja worrier 7c+ (flash)</span> and I was able to do all the moves in Ninja skills. Even better! I climbed it from the second move. Unfortunately I had to leave it for the next day. Because I was trying very hard on it, my skin was very bad so I just couldn't do it my first go. Actually I spent few desperate tries and at the end put my self into a sending mode and crushed it.<br />
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With Klančnik we went down to Chironico and decided to spend the last hours of daylight. We occupied The crack line 8b. Even though we were both tired I did a very good try on it and slipped from the last hold. There was still daylight... "OK! Let's try <span style="color: cyan;">Second life</span>!". We moved there, Klančnik checked out the moves and I sent it on my first go (tried it few years ago). To me it felt like 7c or so, even though the grade is <span style="color: cyan;">8a+</span>.<br />
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Here are the clips from Za star kolo and Ninja skills: </div>
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<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-10174113533020249492016-02-19T07:24:00.000-08:002016-02-19T07:24:32.271-08:00The shelterAccording to all the nice stories that happened recently on our trip to Ticino, I think The shelter is the right title. A special story wasn't a climbing one, but it was the one when we actually met wonderful people in Bavona. So we slept in a great shelter under huge boulder in the forest and one day we were invited to one of those beautiful houses in Sonlerto. Very nice couple (Robi and Nadia - hope I writhe names correctly) invited us for a lunch (polenta) and some good wine. They heat up our hearts with their hospitality so we became even more motivated to climb. So in 2 days in Bavona I did first ascent of 2 very beautiful lines: <span style="color: cyan;">The shelter 8b+</span> and <span style="color: cyan;">Tektonik effect 8a</span>. The first one is located just between Elyssium and The corridor, the other one you can find just behind Trigonometry. On the same block where Trigonometry is, there is another project I was trying on. I believe it could reach the grade of 8c and I almost did every single move. I'm so happy for my friends Klemen Kejžar and Jakob Bizjak for repeating Trigonometry and later for ascents in Chironico. And so we moved to Chironico. The weather was not on our side, but that didn't kill our spirit. We did a team send of <span style="color: cyan;">La persistencia de la memoria 8a</span> together with Samuel Ometz (who btw showed us the new line). We moved to <span style="color: cyan;">Alphane moon 8a</span>, but Bizi and I were to tired to send it. Klemen got insanely strong and flashed, but Bizi and I had to come back few days later to finish it. The other block that we occupied and brutalised was the one with <span style="color: cyan;">Big kat </span>line on it. On first session I did the<span style="color: cyan;"> stand start(8a+)</span> of it and on next session I did the whole (<span style="color: cyan;">8b+</span>) line. Unfortunately the weather wasn't on our side again, so we had to finish our trip on a short stop in Cresciano.<br />
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It's also interesting that I can say I did some sport routes before my trip to Ticino. I was able to send 30 meters long <span style="color: cyan;">Ledena doba 8b+</span> at Čreta and <span style="color: cyan;">Fratres 8b</span> in Zigeunerloch.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The shelter</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">the real shelter</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Robi's horses</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">the best lunch</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">In the buble 6c, FA</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Big kat </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Tektonik effect</span></div>
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<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-52233228520887435142016-01-21T02:08:00.000-08:002016-01-21T04:55:45.115-08:00Some more granite around my hometown Few years ago, a friend of mine took me to a new spot around Slovenska Bistrica. There was no lines open yet so I focussed on projects in other areas more. This winter the local guys did a great job with cleaning and opening new lines. So on Monday I went there to try the existing lines and maybe to try only project which was left there. It was really cold and very hard to warm up, but I luckily managed to <span style="color: cyan;">flash</span> one of the best lines in Slovenia. It is slopy <span style="color: cyan;">7c+</span> line on a perfect slopers, called <span style="color: cyan;">Žabje kraljestvo</span>. We moved to Mothership boulder, where I also<span style="color: cyan;"> flash</span>ed <span style="color: cyan;">Enterprise</span> for which I think it's more <span style="color: cyan;">7c(+)</span>. I really don't want to downgrade those things, but because it's fresh new it won't be too bad. Later I tried the whole line. It's a crazy roof traverse with some body turns, leading into Enterprise (2 hard moves). I tried the moves in between for some minutes and than did it from the start on my second go. Klančnik, who first tried this line named it <span style="color: cyan;">Vulcan logic</span> and I gave it <span style="color: cyan;">8a+</span> grade. Hope we find some more projects in this part of Pohorje.<br />
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I also happy to announce that I'm getting close on my Lanicor project in Golobove pečine. Yesterday I managed to do it in 2 prats. Let's hope for good weather and some luck as well.<br />
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Here is video of me from Bistriški vintgar:<br />
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<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-47401763701459696952016-01-07T07:33:00.004-08:002016-01-07T07:39:56.018-08:00Bolting expedition DalmatiaIt is always a question where to go for the new year's holidays. Like usually, the first plan was to go to Spain, but I just couldn't get a proper team together. Than I was thinking about Croatia. I was always dreaming about going there for few months, but never got chance to make it happen. Probably the problem was, that I wanted to go there for such a long time. So I just decided, why not to go there just for few weeks. I knew they have tons of rocks there, but nothing really hard to climb. So I decided to make a team of few friends who would like to go with me to bolt some new routes. So there was a first problem. How to get a proper team and where to get a proper equipment. Well with the equipment wasn't that bad, because Treking sport and Boris Čujić saved me with donating 200 bolts and anchors. With the team was not so hard, the only problem was to get them all together for the same dates. So we made a deal that I'll be there for 3 weeks and others will be coming and going.<br />
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Trip started a bit differently than you would expect. I went there with my father for first 3 days and bolted first 5 routes in Vrulja including project which I named Dugi rat (long war-I spent 2 days to bolt it). We were staying at Boris parents at Mimice, where I found a good potential for some hard routes. When my friend Luka Tambača came, we went up there just above their house and I started with bolting. I bolted 4 routes and later a local guy and now a good friend of mine Ivan Kuvačić came aroud and bolted 2 extra routes. The other crew arrived just before new year and it was time for me to stop bolting and start climbing a bit. I did 2 of my projects in Mimice (<span style="color: cyan;">Gas gas</span> and <span style="color: cyan;">Gusjenica samoubojica</span>, both <span style="color: cyan;">8a</span>) and started climbing in Vrulja. While I did a first ascent of <span style="color: cyan;">Zona radova 6b+</span>, <span style="color: cyan;">Ostri kot 7c+</span> and <span style="color: cyan;">Sipar direkt 8a+</span> in upper cave, Bojan Hribernik - Alpi was bolting new routes in a lower big cave. He bolted 2 really nice routes and I got the chance to make a first ascent of his 40 meters beauty. We called it <span style="color: cyan;">Slovenski san</span> and I suggested a grade of <span style="color: cyan;">8a+</span>. When Kejžar team went home, Gašper Pintar was joining us. Together with him and Alpi, we bolted ground up a new route, which unfortunately climbed only Pinti and I. Now it has a name <span style="color: cyan;">Dimni signal</span> and <span style="color: cyan;">7c+</span> grade. Than weather started to bothering us. I luckily had a chance to try my big project and do all the moves. It begins with a bouldery 8a+ route to quite good rest. After that you need to follow some longer moves until you reach a small rest. I would say it's about 8b+/c to that point, but it follows into a hard boulder section. With a bad rest follows another hard 2 moves crux and few more moves to matle this cave out. When the weather was a bit better, I took this advantage and bolted a new short route, on which Pinti did first and I second ascent. Now we call it <span style="color: cyan;">Morska plošča za 2</span>, <span style="color: cyan;">7b</span>. Also tried a blank slab under the same anchor and almost did all moves. Got to be back to bolt it- it's going to be a hard short slab.<br />
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We also got a chance to try some bouldering around Split, where I did <span style="color: cyan;">first repetition</span> of Croatian's hardest boulder problem <span style="color: cyan;">Ptičja gripa 8a+ </span>and climbed <span style="color: cyan;">Blade runner 8a</span> and <span style="color: cyan;">Poker face 7c+</span>.<br />
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You can find a topi here: <a href="https://27crags.com/crags/vrulja">https://27crags.com/crags/vrulja</a><br />
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Thanks again to everybody who were responsible to make this trip possible:<br />
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Treking sport, Boris Čujić, Ivan Kuvačić, Luka Tambača, Bojan Hribernik, Gašper Pintar, Kejžar family, Eva Deban, Edi Kruder, Vedran Puljiz, Minja Čulić, Frane Čulić and all the other Croatian friends!<br />
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And for those who haven't seen my movie about Massacrate: <a href="http://www.epictv.com/media/uservideo/massacrate-9a/604069">Massacrate 9a+</a><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Velika stena, Mimice</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">bolting Velika stena</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Mimice above the road</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Špilja, Mimice</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Ivan Kuvačić bolting in Špilja, Mimice</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Gas gas 8a</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Gusjenica samoubojica 8a</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLL7G4sI7g4UA7G_wIWR0kRmaYYJvZcGFGLD8THKNNEDhvtCXd0BqBTYSwk4NuB8NGRAQMWGZgLCzQRU86ymxksX77VqAULSHGauXVq8mdDMRc7Ge0zWfIv6n9vmKxYC9EQGw6D-KvWYY/s1600/DSC_0083.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLL7G4sI7g4UA7G_wIWR0kRmaYYJvZcGFGLD8THKNNEDhvtCXd0BqBTYSwk4NuB8NGRAQMWGZgLCzQRU86ymxksX77VqAULSHGauXVq8mdDMRc7Ge0zWfIv6n9vmKxYC9EQGw6D-KvWYY/s320/DSC_0083.JPG" width="214" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyKcgbfMoetz5DxXoaMWlBKOzid-Ip8kIDKcMs6j4ks8CS1UfpG58olHHjWDlV1BSQa_HPl9ljnT2LZS_qcpuYV42D45smVlvdLob8e8am1dTag3PxczHrndFL2dEwDgtgDFPBUKXyRM4/s1600/DSC_0080.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCfgz7haYAuhtv3DwiD7IrVO8MOJeRNhO_6zX8JS5kpa8IPTHkqKMLLkNlMloSl1VW-opVqqMfr30N5rAcgOpiBH893O-YuFdNlON1g7LBIONZeD5HpKSo0HmpWjZDumBxP3P04H8oISA/s1600/DSC_0079.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCfgz7haYAuhtv3DwiD7IrVO8MOJeRNhO_6zX8JS5kpa8IPTHkqKMLLkNlMloSl1VW-opVqqMfr30N5rAcgOpiBH893O-YuFdNlON1g7LBIONZeD5HpKSo0HmpWjZDumBxP3P04H8oISA/s320/DSC_0079.JPG" width="214" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">the magnificent Vrulja</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfJPbIOGRaXl9ZeZBbyeWlnqz4n7UwHuoVcsYaURZ1tG-UBk-6b7Sr5wEme8Sw4_nqrZvXoiY6alD4GitSR121XndK3RlaXrGAdZJXL3ll3w5m6VJfjMiAHB6oL9-qwyXpERWd9Cr0zKw/s1600/20151221_112844.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfJPbIOGRaXl9ZeZBbyeWlnqz4n7UwHuoVcsYaURZ1tG-UBk-6b7Sr5wEme8Sw4_nqrZvXoiY6alD4GitSR121XndK3RlaXrGAdZJXL3ll3w5m6VJfjMiAHB6oL9-qwyXpERWd9Cr0zKw/s320/20151221_112844.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvwETO79OT6k-u8ie7_8FNtc_O8wEaX9gbBwTzzMSGi7IxFDaKw6-ROi_9Iuz-kA8hqy_cxWIetUKBI4dJZIC3u1h2zI0Pl0KYlUuYcY1HRnuwrQZ3uHAf-1om5qeCTybXggM2aPKJ8FU/s1600/12459665_10207521787819277_1773440697_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvwETO79OT6k-u8ie7_8FNtc_O8wEaX9gbBwTzzMSGi7IxFDaKw6-ROi_9Iuz-kA8hqy_cxWIetUKBI4dJZIC3u1h2zI0Pl0KYlUuYcY1HRnuwrQZ3uHAf-1om5qeCTybXggM2aPKJ8FU/s320/12459665_10207521787819277_1773440697_n.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Pinti in Sipar direkt 8a+ Evina plata</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUDLv20pfDjVXOU9VEMkBnsyVyn3FbdHfEs8BqmU-MJ1q3XKN2iX7KSZMtTJgc-4DCGnRIbw0xOlsQKsOMssHIyaEzFU0KCFvSmnqJ-p1T94we9xOoBPyC3sNTx0oS5rywRb68nGrQtf4/s1600/12463678_10207521787699274_1798955981_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUDLv20pfDjVXOU9VEMkBnsyVyn3FbdHfEs8BqmU-MJ1q3XKN2iX7KSZMtTJgc-4DCGnRIbw0xOlsQKsOMssHIyaEzFU0KCFvSmnqJ-p1T94we9xOoBPyC3sNTx0oS5rywRb68nGrQtf4/s320/12463678_10207521787699274_1798955981_n.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">on the top of Slovenski san 8a+</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNoQE09CxIQxz5VN942aEMstFVvDsDlWDDBOmOgsYw4x2LnM5kiIUQSWDJfQZ6WSnvKPVKv7dr_lUNKqfi6ptEw6Qe6paAIHG2D9WHdADmDqovPDyzsYbkPAa6WQfGBuG2Bev9I7NoCUI/s1600/20151219_145202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNoQE09CxIQxz5VN942aEMstFVvDsDlWDDBOmOgsYw4x2LnM5kiIUQSWDJfQZ6WSnvKPVKv7dr_lUNKqfi6ptEw6Qe6paAIHG2D9WHdADmDqovPDyzsYbkPAa6WQfGBuG2Bev9I7NoCUI/s320/20151219_145202.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Upper cave</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuuOH2DJfUqNHcaBRjH-GMWvaxhz3NHOpYUckDrA4dqjatNbO-Ts-dp6R0NT4BvX8eRbdwke4EEBf6ZeF07eFlq-CCA8WQJFQp9W1D1ZnnOtox39HIfEgGA91hSCWGApsfbjuH9e0eOUM/s1600/20151219_150746.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuuOH2DJfUqNHcaBRjH-GMWvaxhz3NHOpYUckDrA4dqjatNbO-Ts-dp6R0NT4BvX8eRbdwke4EEBf6ZeF07eFlq-CCA8WQJFQp9W1D1ZnnOtox39HIfEgGA91hSCWGApsfbjuH9e0eOUM/s320/20151219_150746.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">both caves</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguLp_X5jE0AQ6EAWCw2bmVHzz7cnxrWEey_oFzMcGHnmNUrc-4ruBv4MzUclNAYWt3P2fcPo74VqvG9vJ87D-0sS_6CAa463hb8Rc2fn3cZeXU2qXqR6QNMl76ROIvVwpwp7mS6vX22Co/s1600/20151220_185233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEguLp_X5jE0AQ6EAWCw2bmVHzz7cnxrWEey_oFzMcGHnmNUrc-4ruBv4MzUclNAYWt3P2fcPo74VqvG9vJ87D-0sS_6CAa463hb8Rc2fn3cZeXU2qXqR6QNMl76ROIvVwpwp7mS6vX22Co/s320/20151220_185233.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">mmm... sea food</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Q4LKpFXh3MpUABJ26A3R_KnIXCKmzHF8M549fKXpxCZActFYu8bd42ti2hvlPjnxHS5e0XKRPH1VHKaP4JxUFLFqKcdSdD9FPBbG8DO0HBUCkrW-FYUoCWt1j2zICgwwEP974momXvE/s1600/20151221_113851.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Q4LKpFXh3MpUABJ26A3R_KnIXCKmzHF8M549fKXpxCZActFYu8bd42ti2hvlPjnxHS5e0XKRPH1VHKaP4JxUFLFqKcdSdD9FPBbG8DO0HBUCkrW-FYUoCWt1j2zICgwwEP974momXvE/s320/20151221_113851.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">big cave</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2i6fOUyHza0cIl5unoM7uqwFZl-PvcHlAK10m8QAjLxWcAo9atluB-RiWZtzF23_Yy6B2CRQM53Kpq7ik70VxK3x6onAWZTPYkQWGmJTCidSEFH-iNvGOowhSCKPrs4kuaYoogzXDu5I/s1600/20151221_152137.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2i6fOUyHza0cIl5unoM7uqwFZl-PvcHlAK10m8QAjLxWcAo9atluB-RiWZtzF23_Yy6B2CRQM53Kpq7ik70VxK3x6onAWZTPYkQWGmJTCidSEFH-iNvGOowhSCKPrs4kuaYoogzXDu5I/s320/20151221_152137.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgaryzFE02Y_lNstd6s2Dem8Mfk0BxuzEY6Aaw0kPw7hQwI27xQTlJWM46zeFYekIr_RjLiAoplIM5QCQQuJ8EOPsF6oDtBn0G6T7-IkM2Q99030wKvwiJ8BT3bkvDgQ9gt-aj-CjgDCU/s1600/20151221_152423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgaryzFE02Y_lNstd6s2Dem8Mfk0BxuzEY6Aaw0kPw7hQwI27xQTlJWM46zeFYekIr_RjLiAoplIM5QCQQuJ8EOPsF6oDtBn0G6T7-IkM2Q99030wKvwiJ8BT3bkvDgQ9gt-aj-CjgDCU/s320/20151221_152423.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsRUD9aF9oq3MWyUnNWG0JKcpRolH0CtvFxH_uTXw9L4V31gi15xVt1G-L399pubCEmZQR8aNyqqHJPl-TPubA1tNURBPm65RmRTMcapIx3_aD28dCCZ4L6L_9JEMVCg1w_rhstdVSBRQ/s1600/20151221_154146.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsRUD9aF9oq3MWyUnNWG0JKcpRolH0CtvFxH_uTXw9L4V31gi15xVt1G-L399pubCEmZQR8aNyqqHJPl-TPubA1tNURBPm65RmRTMcapIx3_aD28dCCZ4L6L_9JEMVCg1w_rhstdVSBRQ/s320/20151221_154146.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">beautiful landscapes</span> </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6AB5eCW6O4iaP-x3X_IgiuPVamplfhnQdWHVCMGLWRUB4BSiE0qCtRRhS8wD-xVB7mwympUFAyKXO4f24Z-kX0rSB0BfuwgdsXlelqaRa-WmyaYXOCi53elYsNRf8nEZHkJC_OHfkcKk/s1600/20160103_143857.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6AB5eCW6O4iaP-x3X_IgiuPVamplfhnQdWHVCMGLWRUB4BSiE0qCtRRhS8wD-xVB7mwympUFAyKXO4f24Z-kX0rSB0BfuwgdsXlelqaRa-WmyaYXOCi53elYsNRf8nEZHkJC_OHfkcKk/s320/20160103_143857.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">ground up in Dimni signal 7c+</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT5HIATJBdfGBiSp06rBRiJtcRPNWblnyoV8Aa_4Js65E9ryQwr-wHZ9xvrbaOaeFuZ_WC4mtwmk6w-4Jmbr-3mOdklkGDR0YxYzRwoBqvJd79p4Fi9ZWJBSOvf5oynaLBfoMujXF5Ejo/s1600/20160104_134729.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT5HIATJBdfGBiSp06rBRiJtcRPNWblnyoV8Aa_4Js65E9ryQwr-wHZ9xvrbaOaeFuZ_WC4mtwmk6w-4Jmbr-3mOdklkGDR0YxYzRwoBqvJd79p4Fi9ZWJBSOvf5oynaLBfoMujXF5Ejo/s320/20160104_134729.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzGPGjXkbzniVHgHLN_L_RAC4SS0xYs0D8SzvtllMwu-gZp2cUKu12VVBfEbT7Mu-Kga86dGFS_sm6cp1zSXrEGN93v52IIWKmBSrVmWYsyTv-7XWe8oPW0STizcT3Z1dM8s7QR2mZru8/s1600/20160105_114128.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzGPGjXkbzniVHgHLN_L_RAC4SS0xYs0D8SzvtllMwu-gZp2cUKu12VVBfEbT7Mu-Kga86dGFS_sm6cp1zSXrEGN93v52IIWKmBSrVmWYsyTv-7XWe8oPW0STizcT3Z1dM8s7QR2mZru8/s320/20160105_114128.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Morska plošča za 2, 7b</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">damn rain</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Alpi bolting the left side of big cave</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Ostri kot 7c+</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Kejžar in Slovenski san</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">searching for right path</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Kejžar in Ostri kot 7c+</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Dugi rat P (9a)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">room with a view </span></div>
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<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-21100511119831970742015-12-07T07:09:00.002-08:002015-12-07T07:09:18.737-08:00The massacrate!!!The whole story begins back in 2006, when I went to European youth cup in Bulgaria. There I met (not for the first time, but more personal) Izidor Zupan. Later we became very good friends, probably because of the same ambitions and craziness we were hiding inside. Climbing was developing fast by that time and I was always trying to find something new around my home town. I remember Izi was telling me about one secret spot near Laško. He said, he sent his hardest route there and that it is a very nice 7b crack. I got so excited about it, I barley wait for my first visit there. When I came there, I was surprised how nice that place is and that there is also some potential for bouldering as well. Izi didn't know so much about bouldering by that time, so he was happy when he realised that there is so much more than he imagined. Don't get too excited about the place while reading this, but for young, ambitious and for kids who come from Slovenia, that was one hell of thing. First we climbed the easiest ones and than year after year we always found something new. Maybe after a year later, we discovered this crazy long cliff, just 5 minutes walk from the other place. We started trying and climbing all the logical lines, but one made a huge impression on me. The upper part of the cliff was really steep and I couldn't believe that there are actually holds and I could actually do all the moves from the first jug to the end of a cliff. Of course for me, that looked quite impossible for that time, but I knew that some day I will do it. After a while, Urh Čehovin came around and didn't see the whole line, so he "only" climbed the crux of the roof and named it Cross my heart, which later became my first 7c+ boulder. Back to the story with Izi. We were growing and getting stronger together. In 2007, Izi did the first ascent of Herpes Zoster, which was the last part of the cliff and graded it 7b+. He named it after his very bad disease he had and I said, if I do the whole thing, I'll call it Meningitis (after disease I had when I was young). I was working on it a hard and in 2010, I succeeded! Quite soon after the FA, I cut the bush down and the whole cliff looked one. There we opened some new lines and according tho the parties we were attending to, we named a new line Inbox, after the best club we have ever gone to. I also opened Yes we can (very nice techno-minimal song), which started on a logical jug and ended up on the starting hold of Meningitis. It's graded as 7c+ boulder problem and it contains 17 moves (before changing beta it was 20). On the same year, I could do it in 2 parts, but I felt like an universe away of actually connecting all together. Years went by and I was still trying it when I had time, but no success. Even worse! Few years ago, the crucial foothold in crux broke. I need some time, just to reclimb "easy" lines that went thru that foothold. Cross my heart was upgraded to 8a and no one else could repeat it. But I didn't give up. In this season I was already kicked out in Xaxid hotel 9a/a+, by falling on the last move cause of the wet hold, so I changed my plans to this project. I've been trying it more often in last 2 moths and finally realised that this thing is actually possible. I was working on crux move a lot, so it would feel easier after the first part. But still the main problem for me was Yes we can. It felt easy, but still to long that I could come to the crux quite fresh. 2 weeks ago I finally reclimbed Meningitis after the brake and I also started to feel, that it's gonna happen sooner or later. In last week came there alone for few times and also the foggy weather made some unpleasant surprises. Crucial hold was luckily dry, but the next jug was completely wet and not even possible to dry out. I set my mind to come there on my 25 birthday and to make it finished. With a full support of the crew that were there with me, I felt like a ski jumper before his performance. Few of them were waiting for me with towels and chalk to come to some crucial holds to dry them out. On my first attempt I finally stick that hold, but unfortunately fell on the next move. Water got it's battle! But I didn't give up. I gave it another try and I sent it!!! Final scream out on the top of the cliff. The battle was over. And that battle wasn't a battle between the hardest climb in Slovenia and me, but it was only a battle between me and connecting all moves together. I also don't care about grade so much, but I would say it could be an <span style="color: cyan;">9a+</span> or if you prefer it- hard 8c boulder problem. Izi knows what <span style="color: cyan;">Massacrate</span> was and I can now tell you as well. It was one of the most hard core parties I've ever went to and it was so hard as this line is! Thank you everyone!!<br />
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Photos by Luka Tambača and archive<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">2009, tree in the back was blocking to find the whole line</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">last part (Herpes Zoster 7b+), 2010</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">1st part, Yes we can 7c+</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqHp1HW76S_hGfkbmdAYpmgu-mynldIPhztDmFxw2c6vjquBdDKKqa3DmB3KvtKT8PGVJjCO1m56IhVoxe20Pum9qQPYt8OM11K3I3lcZMvcHZRZP-0qRBq-ZftaCsMJEceQukz4NgdVI/s1600/59238_1588827557855_1976549_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqHp1HW76S_hGfkbmdAYpmgu-mynldIPhztDmFxw2c6vjquBdDKKqa3DmB3KvtKT8PGVJjCO1m56IhVoxe20Pum9qQPYt8OM11K3I3lcZMvcHZRZP-0qRBq-ZftaCsMJEceQukz4NgdVI/s320/59238_1588827557855_1976549_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">last moves in Yes we can</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyZb1G0VVT-yhqRyhWkPvwGUpyJFlabtmXt67ONQIZFib8WUSotKlT3KZlkMhyphenhyphenyuNR-Wbqp57HUJWNXvqn-yRKAUfHWgPP877CVF16h7raVy9Dr211wtJwCComqk79LFbAtvYS8GSRxvI/s1600/59238_1588827597856_7134920_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyZb1G0VVT-yhqRyhWkPvwGUpyJFlabtmXt67ONQIZFib8WUSotKlT3KZlkMhyphenhyphenyuNR-Wbqp57HUJWNXvqn-yRKAUfHWgPP877CVF16h7raVy9Dr211wtJwCComqk79LFbAtvYS8GSRxvI/s320/59238_1588827597856_7134920_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">last move into Meningitis 8b+</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg04VqePB3FCmLhsSXi9yy4w78cMYEct7xR4WKxuWHf0R2sbVG_fJL6CcljD6gdKJYX46WZlgW_xYHzO02-ez2e3AqJIyKJ3cDA9EDxM60Xk0h55ZOGoVdc6m4H3uAZRNXMrPcsq9VJ1OM/s1600/59238_1588827637857_1409097_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg04VqePB3FCmLhsSXi9yy4w78cMYEct7xR4WKxuWHf0R2sbVG_fJL6CcljD6gdKJYX46WZlgW_xYHzO02-ez2e3AqJIyKJ3cDA9EDxM60Xk0h55ZOGoVdc6m4H3uAZRNXMrPcsq9VJ1OM/s320/59238_1588827637857_1409097_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">starting hold in Meningitis</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">moves before crux</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">old Cross my heart 7c+</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIG2GcoZyJOK5r_Uv6E7st35wiGdmnS2c65M-2QUu8iCarkRY1s_gSoJDdDb14M0Gb6VQ10h0xAZCvRx0tm6BjFyX_p7sxLrCj1NZ3Qh2NSF7l839EZvvUiMsoppFZONI0pGPpvZ2tBBA/s1600/11074378_10206383373960446_3879865802008679733_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIG2GcoZyJOK5r_Uv6E7st35wiGdmnS2c65M-2QUu8iCarkRY1s_gSoJDdDb14M0Gb6VQ10h0xAZCvRx0tm6BjFyX_p7sxLrCj1NZ3Qh2NSF7l839EZvvUiMsoppFZONI0pGPpvZ2tBBA/s320/11074378_10206383373960446_3879865802008679733_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Cross my heart 8a, May 2015</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">last hard move, November</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">crux move</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">it starts somewhere above white pad</span></div>
<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-65013122746672104712015-12-01T03:19:00.002-08:002015-12-01T03:19:26.180-08:00Nationals 2015One of the best Nationals ended last weekend. I was super motivated to compete in lead and boulder from Friday till Sunday. I was really calm on Friday's qualifications in bouldering and made it to the finals with a nice lead. Saturday was a day for lead. I really wished to climb good and really wished to make it to the podium this time. I was so calm, I even surprised my self with making it to the finals on the 3rd place and climb to the same point as Domen and Urban in the finals. So I ended on <span style="color: cyan;">3rd place in lead</span>.<br />
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I couldn't resist for the upcoming party in Kranj, so had to try partying before <span style="color: cyan;">boulder finals</span>. Turned out quite well I must say, even though I was pretty scared until last boulder. Urban was in the lead until last one, where I had last chance to win a title. For my luck, Urban couldn't do the last one and I only had few tries to finish it. I did one unnecessary try and put my self in even worse position. But I collected my self and sent it on my second go, which was enough for <span style="color: cyan;">winning</span> the comp.<br />
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<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-83990698936959305412015-12-01T02:58:00.003-08:002015-12-01T02:59:48.165-08:00First time BavonaOne of the biggest dream came true last week. There are so many places I want to visit, but I don't think I had a bigger wish to go somewhere else but Valle Bavona before. So I made a deal with Rok Klančnik to go there for just 3 days. We came there around midnight on Sunday and we really had to take a look of first few boulders you can se from the road. We were so excited we barely sleep, so on the next morning we were just walking around to find every boulder we wanted to see. But before midday we couldn't resist anymore and we started climbing. We warmed up in very technical and very beautiful slab in the middle of this beautiful stone village called <span style="color: cyan;">Village idiot 7b+</span>. We both spent few tries to stand on the top of it. Next was classical Off the wagon, but just for few tries and soon we were off to <span style="color: cyan;">Heritage 8b+</span>. I gave it a super good flash go (didn't grab the gaetone correctly and fell, than did it to the top), than spent another 2 hours to finish it. Rok unfortunately fell from the very top and made a bad split under the finger nail. On day 2, we started with <span style="color: cyan;">Budica</span> and <span style="color: cyan;">Trigonometry 8a</span>. Again came so close to flash, but because of the sun, I couldn't see where the top hold is. On my <span style="color: cyan;">second go</span> it went down easily and also Rok was a bit lucky with this one. Off the wagon, on the wagon, on and off the wagon...no success again. At least Rok nailed it on Kings of Sonlerto 8b in just few tries. Day 3 was a bit shorter, but long enough to <span style="color: cyan;">flash Milight 8a</span> and to destroy skin on Off the wagon again.<br />
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This valley impressed me so much, I have to come back with rope, pads and maybe even some technical gear!<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Trigonometry, 8a</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">classical swiss forest</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">the best village in the World</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Rok on Kings of Sonlerto</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Heritage, 8b+</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Off the wagon, 8b+</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Village idiot, 7b+</span></div>
<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-9977919697504338662015-11-17T09:25:00.001-08:002015-11-17T09:32:02.662-08:00Local areas rock!After Finland, I decided to spend some time in local areas like Golobove pečine and Kamniško Savonjske Alps. Because the weather was pretty nice and warm, I went to Mrzla gora together with Karel Završnik to climb <span style="color: cyan;">Mihov 7. zobek</span>. As far as we knew, the route hasn't been climbed as it should be, at least the hardest pitch in lead. So I started with first pitch graded with <span style="color: cyan;">7a+</span>. Bouldery and technical slab with some bushes on the top. I did it on sight. It was a bit hard to find the line up to the next anchor. so after <span style="color: cyan;">5c</span> we were already under the overhang of the hardest pitch. I decided to give it an on sight attempt, but obviously it was too difficult to read for me. Needed few minutes to figure out moves, went to the top and gave Karel a top rope try. In next try I was comfortable enough to sent it without any problems. We again had some small problems in next pitches, but luckily they were easy enough to solve everything out. In my opinion the upper pitches were <span style="color: cyan;">6c</span>, <span style="color: cyan;">4c</span> and <span style="color: cyan;">5c</span>, including <span style="color: cyan;">7c+</span> as the hardest one. Hopefully we'll be back in spring to bolt some new stuff on this amazing piece of rock.<br />
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In Golobove pečine, I met my old friends where we fight together true some old classics that were broken and unrepeated. I reclimbed <span style="color: cyan;">Meningitis</span>(use to be hard 8b, now <span style="color: cyan;">8b+</span>) and together with Izi, we repeated <span style="color: cyan;">Dropbox</span>(8a, now <span style="color: cyan;">8a+</span>). Too bad that Bizi couldn't send it as well, but I'm sure he'll do it next time!<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">crux in Kanjon's project</span></div>
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<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-63029624597819322532015-11-14T10:56:00.003-08:002015-11-14T10:56:47.496-08:00Isatis open 2015It was so nice to be back to Finland! This time I won't be writing too much and I hope photos are going to speak for them selves. With a great team we set 74 problems for Isatis open and I was also able to touch some rock. Julija did Uneton yo 7b and I <span style="color: cyan;">flash</span>ed <span style="color: cyan;">Paholainen 7c</span>. I'm also very glad that Julija was able to win this competition in a though battle with time.<br />
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<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-6760062889798620452015-11-08T11:18:00.002-08:002015-11-16T08:48:52.162-08:00Turns out to be goodAfter a successful month in Switzerland, I decided to climb sport routes again. As usually I'm tired of bouldering season, so Mišja peč is the place to be. So in October I opened my self few projects and come so close to all of them. First I did Public enemy 8c in Zigeunerloch in 2 parts, than Xaxid hostel and Histerija in 2 parts. But somehow I couldn't finish either of them. Even worse! I broke a hold in Xaxid and lost all motivation to work on it again. Than I was route setting nationals during the night and got sick. Luckily it wasn't too bad and came to Mišja very calm and without any expectations. The conditions were great and I just walk through <span style="color: cyan;">Histerija</span> on my 10th try. In my opinion is definitely not the hardest <span style="color: cyan;">8c+</span>, but I'm still very happy for it. It was my 5th route on this grade, including first part of Xaxid for which I think it's very hard. After Histerija I got a Bit tired so i went to a sector spot on Nanos, where I climbed this beautiful <span style="color: cyan;">8a</span> slab, opened by Tadej Slabe some while ago. In Vipavska Bela I <span style="color: cyan;">on sight</span>ed <span style="color: cyan;">Fikus 7c+</span>, <span style="color: cyan;">flash</span>ed <span style="color: cyan;">Hči naslade 8b</span> and did <span style="color: cyan;">Rosinand 8a</span> on my <span style="color: cyan;">second go</span>.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Unknown 8a slab</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">still trying Xaxid</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Julija in final route on nationals</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">regular day in Mišja</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">more slabs</span></div>
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But have to say that I couldn't stay away from bouldering, so I sent <span style="color: cyan;">Pijavka 8a+</span> in Ožbalt and <span style="color: cyan;">Izvir 7c+</span> in Oplotnica. Also repeated some classics on Jurgovo that I have done before, like Le belanca 8a, Angry birds 8a, Spax 7c+ and more. I'm also very happy for my little sister Julija for her first 8a, Angry birds and for Zan for the same as Julija and for Le belanca.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Le belanca 8a</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Julija on Angry birds</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Čudoviti um 7b+</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Pijavka 8a+</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Some new stuff on Jurgovo</span></div>
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And some trad. climbing news. Jan and I did some new routes at Oplotnica, up to 6b.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Jan Pinter in Za žene 5</span></div>
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<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-55831995381326580322015-10-12T00:28:00.000-07:002015-10-12T00:33:39.535-07:003x 8b+ and the 3rd placeThe whole story begins when Vezi and I planed an one month trip to Switzerland just to climb <span style="color: cyan;">8b+</span> (<span style="color: cyan;">Hattori Hanzo</span>) multipitch. Somehow we managed to climb it on our first week of the trip as I wrote in a previous story. So we had 4 more weeks to spend just for climbing and to have fun. The best place to go was Arco, because there was youth World Championship and good spots to do some sport climbing. Of course we had fun and ate tons of the best ice cream in the world. I was trying my best to do Underground, but unfortunately we were to focused for 3 weeks of Magic wood already. I came quite close, but didn't have enough endurance for the last crux. I think I have kind of a barrier for 9a routes, I always do the moves and climb them in 2 parts, but it's so hard to put it in one piece. Maybe I just need more time to work on things like this, but anyway. Back to the story. About 8b+ battle, Vezi came closer to hat trick doing 8b+ (Hale Bopp) sport route. I only did <span style="color: cyan;">Gravity games 8b/b+</span>, which didn't count in the game in my opinion even though it felt hard. I also did <span style="color: cyan;">Fuego 8b</span> and <span style="color: cyan;">on sighted 7c+</span>. After a good party and few scoops of best ice cream, we moved to Magic. Conditions there were not so good, but we knew it's gonna take some time to get into bouldering shape. The only think that I was happy about, was sending the first part of <span style="color: cyan;">Unendliche geschichte 8a+</span>. I was so excited, because I knew that now I can link the whole think. I started working on second part again. Now all the moves felt so easy, I could also do second part no feet. But still couldn't link it together. Weather got even worse, so we decided to go to Zurich for a few days. Luckily our very good friend Urs gave us a warm place to stay. That's how we got some powers. No we decided to try at least one more 8b+ sport route. We chose probably the worst climbing area in the world, called Deponie. After warming up, we attacked the hardest route in the area. After suffering and almost giving up, I somehow managed to send <span style="color: cyan;">Shaolin 8b+</span>. Vezi did it right after me. Weather didn't get any better, but it got a bit colder. Luckily we found some dry days to climb and that gave enough confidence to send <span style="color: cyan;">The never ending story 8b+</span>. This is how I won the 8b+ game. I have to say I didn't compete against Vezi (but he did at least 8b), but just to my self. I haven't climbed 8b+ boulder for a while so it was about time. More rain came and even more friction, so I was also able to send <span style="color: cyan;">Riverbed 8b </span>on my 4th try of a trip, <span style="color: cyan;">Elecrtoboogie 8a+</span>, <span style="color: cyan;">Sofa surfer 8a+</span>,<span style="color: cyan;"> Supersupernova 8a</span> and <span style="color: cyan;">Grit deluxe direct 7c</span>. After that, it became impossible to climb and the snow came as well. It was time to move to Stuttgart.<br />
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My skin wasn't really good in Magic, so I knew that this is the skin I need for competition. I also felt quite confident and prepared for adidas rockstars. In every round I climbed really good, so I made it to the finals as I should do it hundred times more in the past. I had a fever, but my mind was so strong I didn't let it finish me. I also got even more motivated, when I heard that I'm performing at the same time as my sister Julija. It was so great when I saw her finish the second problem on my right side that I said to my self, if she did it I have to do it as well. And it happened! I did it on my 5th go which put me on the podium (<span style="color: cyan;">3rd place</span>). Unfortunately competition ended for me at this point, but I was more than happy. That was one od the best and for sure the most successful trip so far! Lets hope for more trips like this.</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">adidas rockstars finals</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Electroboogie</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">hard 8b in Murgtal</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">best meal in Magic- burgers</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">first day, sending UG1</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">all thanks to Medikem for supporting us with energy food</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The never ending story</span></div>
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Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-45681030804825293772015-09-02T04:47:00.000-07:002015-10-12T00:29:36.071-07:00Hattori Hanzo!!!This is the story about two bouldering guys, who accidentally came up with an idea to climb one of the hardest multi pitch routes for Slovenians. The idea came when Gregor (later Vezi) and I were on a trip to Switzerland last year, just for some sport climbing. I've always been the one, who wanted to climb more in the mountains and also Vezi had some experience from multi pitch climbing. During the stay at Urs Stoeckler's house I was checking the guide book of eastern Switzerland. I always find some projects while looking at guide books, but I just rarely find time and a partner to make it come true. First idea was of course Sielbergeier, but since it has so many repetitions, I found a plan B in Titilis Nordwand. I asked Urs about the route and he was happy to tell me, that he has been in the route already and that it hasn't seen any repetitions after first ascent of Matthias Trottmann in 2013. I asked Vezi, if he is in to go with me. He said, that if he finishes all the exams until August than he's in. I must admit, Vezi was very committed to work and he was finished with all exams in June already. Luckily now we had time, to organise everything for this trip. We both had time, the only problem was money. That's the moment when Vezi did an amazing job again. He got us enough money, to go for an one month trip. I prepared my car and organised some other things and we were ready for the trip. Plan was to go there for a month and if we climb it faster, than we can go for some bouldering in Magic wood as well.<br />
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Everything was ready and we were of to go. We arrived to Engelberg on Monday, 24. of August. Unfortunately it was raining and it was dark already, so we didn't want to walk up to bivouac. The next day rain stopped and we headed up with all the needed equipment. Because of the fog we got lost a bit and so we needed at least 2 hours to get somewhere. We couldn't find the bivouac, so we made one by our own, took the climbing gear and went to the route. As expected, lower part of the route was soaking wet, but we were brave and decided to try it anyway. Luckily we were smart enough and turned down after first pitch. On the way back to our new home, we spotted the original place for bivouac. From our bivouac, we needed almost an hour to get to the route, so we decided to move our stuff up to the original one and we saved almost half an hour walk. On that day, we walked as I've never walked before in my life. But we were not so tired and we got some sleep after all. 26. 8. was the day, when we gave it a first real try. Vezi led the first <span style="color: cyan;">5b</span> pitch, <span style="color: cyan;">6b </span>was mine, the wet <span style="color: cyan;">7b</span> Vezi on sighted easily and the same with me in next<span style="color: cyan;"> 6c</span> slab. Now the easy part was over. Also the terrain chained from slabs to a huge overhang. The real business began, when Vezi started with an <span style="color: cyan;">8b+</span>. He was doing okay, but after few quickdraws he was a bit to scared to get to the next one. He came down to the ledge and gave me a try. Luckily I didn't have problems on that part and I made it to the top, while doing all the moves individually. Vezi came after me and also checked out all the moves. We both felt satisfied, because we knew it's possible. Hanging anchor wasn't too comfortable, so we continued up to next <span style="color: cyan;">8a+</span> pitch. The same as before I did all the moves, belayed Vezi for the same reason and than decided to go down, thinking the last<span style="color: cyan;"> 7a </span>pitch is easy. I really had mixed feelings about hardest pitch. I knew I can do it next try, or I can just grab the second quickdraw because of being nervous. We came down to bivouac and made a proper mountain dinner. After having delicious lunch (huge snack bar) in the route, we made a Cuscus with some tuna and corn. Next day the route was a bit dryer and weather was nice. We came under the route around 10:00 and Vezi started with first 2 pitches connecting together. I did the same with 7b and 6c. I said to Vezi, that I'm prepared for a serious try and if I maybe fall, I'll just check out the moves again. Expect the unexpected! I was on the top of 8b+. I felt comfortable for next pitch, so I gave Vezi 2 tries in this one. Unfortunately he couldn't do it that day, so I was continuing to 8a+. I didn't take any rest, because I knew next one shouldn't be a problem for me. But speaking of devil. I was at the point, where I was 100% sure I'm gonna fall. I was fighting with all my strengths I had and somehow managed to hold the last jug. We didn't take any drinks with us up to that pitch, so I just had to move on with 7a. There were still 40 meters of slightly overhanging , loose rock climbing. I got cramps in my muscles after first quick draw and run outs were killing my confidence. With every next move I was suffering and praying for jugs and quick draws to come. This pitch just didn't end. I reached the top so tired, I couldn't even look around and scream the victory sound. I just wanted to go down. We left almost all of our stuff in bivouac and went down to valley. When I got my beer and pizza, the right emotions came out. I was happy, calm and satisfied.<br />
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We took a day off and got back for Vezi's revenge. I think, I would never walk so much just to belay someone. But the plan was, that all of us should climb it, so I didn't even hesitate and went up there with him. He was a bit afraid of 8a+ and that he would fail it. He said, if he doesn't make it in this weekend, we won't be back. Luckily we met Matthias at the bivouac and the atmosphere was so positive, Vezi felt more comfortable and determined he can make it. On Saturday we were back in the route. Everything went smoothly up to the ledge. Even more than 70 moves felt easy enough for this boulder guy, he didn't get pumped too much. Now the hard part for him has began. He didn't really remember all the moves, so he got lost a bit and fell. I can tell how said he was, when he realised he has to try it again. He didn't feel fresh anymore, but he gave it one more try. I can imagine how determinate he was on the part where he fell before, because he wouldn't try it again if he fell. He used all the skills he had to make it done. And also Vezi was on the top. 7a didn't cost him any problems, because he knew some more than I knew, when I was there. I was so happy for him and of course me as well, that we don't have to go back and we can enjoy in what we like the most. Bouldering!<br />
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After these moments I really have to thank our donators for financial support and food as well. Without you, this incredible ascent wouldn't be possible. So all thanks to Vertikala X d.o.o. (Gregor Lačen), METAO (Al Hiasat Marko Omar), Medikem (Bogdan Tušek), IKD (Franc Pušnik) and Scarpa.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">first 2 pitches</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">my life as a belayer</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Titlis north wall</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">breakfast</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">the wall</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">no food for a week</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">reppel</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">bivouac</span></div>
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<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-11118407866818758412015-08-20T03:17:00.001-07:002015-08-20T03:17:08.646-07:00Climbing lottery Next time I'm playing roulette, I'm putting my bets on number 21. Looks like it was my "lucky" number on this years World Cup circuit. Even before World Cups, I felt stronger than ever before and also my mind was calm and peaceful. On the European Championship I was ready and couldn't wait for the qualifications to begin. Somehow my climbing wasn't okay enough and after no failure last year, number 21 was mine again. It happened for 2 more time in World Cups, so I really don't know what's the reason. As I already said, I felt strong so I could sent one of my hardest routes, right after the failure in Munich. I'd like to say, I didn't feel pressure in Munich or anything, it was just bad luck.<br />
And all I can say about <span style="color: cyan;">Miza za šest</span>, is that I was quite close to send it last year, but didn't have enough time to work on it for some longer. I tried it this year in spring and it didn't feel like I can do it, if I don't try it for some more. But looks like I was wrong again. After nice little party in Munich, 3 hours of sleep and 6 hours drive, I sent my 4th <span style="color: cyan;">8c+ </span>almost for warming up. It was the last combination route that I wanted to finish in Kotečnik, because it's still quite logical one. There are still some combinations that I despise. I rather finish up some routes that were left in sector Trapez and Kača.<br />
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I hope the lottery will work in my favour in next month, when Vezi and I will try to do the second ascent of multi pitch route Hatorri Hanzo 8b+, in Titlis Nordwand, Switzerland.<br />
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Photos by: Luka Tambača, Štefan Wraber, Roman Krajnik<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">rest after connection part</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">crux in Katakombe</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">last move, where I fell for few times</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">unlucky Munich</span></div>
<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-25315208809350444592015-08-11T09:48:00.002-07:002015-08-11T09:48:42.887-07:00Rätikon boulder master 2015As I wrote on my Instagram profile, unfortunately I didn't win, but was very close. Anyway the qualifiers didn't work quite well for me, cause I couldn't do 2 out of 8 problems. The system was a bit different than I am used on World Cups, but luckily it was enough to make it to the finals. Problems were really nice in the finals, but some moves were simply just to hard for all of us. One of them was easy, that almost all of us flashed it. But still, it was weird enough, that it costed Jan one extra try. We both did the last one in second go and here I was lucky because of Jan's mistake. Gui Gui was strong in qualifiers already (he was the only one who did all of them) and also in the finals. He performed so well and with all the pressure he had, he still flashed the last boulder and won, me <span style="color: cyan;">second</span> and Jan third.<br />
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The whole competition was a nice experience before last World Cup in Munich and I can say that I'm calm and very motivated.<br />
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Here is also a short report from last weekend that I spent in Arco. The main reason to go there, was to try Underground 9a. I felt a bit sick, but I was still able to do it up to the last crux. From there I basically did it to the top. That was on my first day, when I also sent some easy routes, one <span style="color: cyan;">7c+</span> on my first go (I tried it some years ago) and <span style="color: cyan;">Halebopp 8b+</span> on my second go this year (+2 tries last year).<br />
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<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-80455051731951100772015-07-12T11:03:00.004-07:002015-07-12T11:07:52.571-07:00Das ist nicht kar takoSlowly Kruder turns into a alpine climber. This time I sent one of the "hardest" Slovenian multi pitch routes called "Das ist nicht kar tako". As usually in the mountains, the biggest problems to me was a hike up to the walls. Because to the house in a valley of Tamar is a dirt road, me and Alpi (Bojan Hribernik) decided to go there by bikes. It still took us about 20-30 minutes, but it was worth it on the way back. From there on you still have to walk for another hour and a half and also climb some easy stuff to get to the first pitch. From there you start immediately with a vertical 55 meters of solid <span style="color: cyan;">6b</span> climbing, where I was the leading one. After that another 55 meters <span style="color: cyan;">6b </span>with an easy boulder crux in between. Next pitch was supposed to be the hardest, with a 7b+ grade. I <span style="color: cyan;">on sight</span>ed it and I think it deserves just <span style="color: cyan;">7a+</span> or may be <span style="color: cyan;">7b</span>, because it's very short and a bit overhanging. From there on, there were another 4 pitches of <span style="color: cyan;">6b- 6c</span> vertical climbing and finally I was standing under the last hard pitch of the route. I gave everything to on sight it, but the route won the battle. After 25 meters of slab climbing, I fell on the last crux on a very delicate slab. When I figured it out, I came down to the anchor, took some 10 minutes of rest and I was back again. With all my power I have from bouldering I did it up to the crux again and again with some bouldering skills did the last slaby crux as a real slab master. Comparing to the first hard pitch, this one is harder for sure. So I think first one is more like 7a+ and this one <span style="color: cyan;">7b </span>(or maybe even 7b and 7b+). Alpi was leading the last <span style="color: cyan;">6b+ </span>pitch and scared shit out of me when falling. I thought I'll fail it too, because I was already tired and I felt a bit cold. Also the pitch was a bit crumble. So Alpi somehow made it to the top and I was following. With such a huge motivation to send the whole thing, I turned on bouldering mode again and did it without any fears. This time the way back was so much easier than the last time in multi pitch climbing. We took some 6 abseils and than the descent on the scree. As I said, the way back from the house was also so much easier with the bikes. It felt so good when we made it back to the car, knowing that I sent alpine route that caused some problems even to some good Slovenian alpinists.<br />
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my suggestions for the grades are: L1: 6b+ (6c), L2: 6b, L3: 7a+ (7b), L4: 6c (6c+), L5: 6c, L6: 6a+ (6b), L7: 6b, L8: 7b (7b+), L9: 6c<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">during abseils</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">me after a send, under the route</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">me and my loyal partner Alpi</span></div>
<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-44260801931914724712015-07-08T02:49:00.001-07:002015-07-08T02:51:50.384-07:00Immer der Nase nachThis time, after a long break of writing I'm finally here with some different news. Because the World cup season was far from good, I decided to climb more on rocks, specifically with rope. So this story is all about a multi pitch that me and Vezi did yesterday.<br />
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Because our plan for September is to climb an 8b+ multi pitch in Switzerland, we knew we have to get used of the heights first. So the perfect route was Immer der Nase nach in Rochelstein (Grazer Bergland), which I already tried some years ago, but couldn't finish it. I lost my quickdraws and other stuff for multi pitch climbing somewhere, so problems started even before we got there. Luckily the route is so well protected, we only needed some quickdraws and helmets. We started at 6.15 from Celje in hope that we will climb at least some route in the shade. Unfortunately after a long hike to the route, sun was already in the wall. We didn't hesitate and immediately started with climbing, because we both wanted to red point all of the hardest pitches. I was leading the first real pitch (<span style="color: cyan;">6c+</span>) and Vezi was following fast. I gave Vezi a chance in next one, so he could try to on sight it. The<span style="color: cyan;"> 7c</span> pitch was a bit too complicated for on sight, but he found all the tricks and came down to a ledge. It was my turn. Vezi gave me such a nice beta, so I didn't even think about falling. There was Vezi's try again. With some struggle he managed to sent this beautiful slaby 3rd pitch. And finally we were at "the Nose". Short, overhanging pitch with original grade of <span style="color: cyan;">10-/10 (8a+/b)</span>. The hardest moves are at the first 3 bolts, slapping slopers on very steep compression pillar. After that, you still have to be a bit careful on some tricky boulder moves. Even though we're boulder climbers, the moves were really hard to us, so we both agreed with 8b grade. So we both spent just few tries for that one and finaly we were under the last pitch. It was getting very hot and we were running out of water. I immediately started with climbing in last <span style="color: cyan;">7a</span> pitch, which had a bit loosy rock. At the end of it, there was a bit weird slab climbing with some hidden holds. I fell. I was pissed of, because I did't all the hard work already and now I'm stuck here on one of the easiest part of the route. I came down and Vezi started with climbing. It was so close, that the same nightmare would happen to him as well, but it didn't. He did it and I didn't. He came down, we drunk all the water we had and it started to rain a bit. I knew, I only have one more chance. It stopped raining, sun came back and the battle began. I was climbing fast and all the time I had it in my head, I'm not supposet to fail. Luckily, I exacly knew what I have to do, so I did it too. Such a release! But new battle begins. 1 and a half hour of descent without water. We were walking down as fast as we could, but our lags were so tired we barley walked. We reached the car. I opened the car- I had another bottle of water, which was boiling from the heat, but it felt good. The temperature at the car was 40°C. Anyway, mission was accomplished. Next stop was McDonalds and the day was almost over!</div>
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The week before I also climed some route like <span style="color: cyan;">Povodni mož 8b+</span>,<span style="color: cyan;"> Ritem v zraku 8a+ on sight</span>, <span style="color: cyan;">Alta area L3 8a on sight</span> and <span style="color: cyan;">Hello Kitty 8a flash</span>. Also bolted a new route in Kotečnik- needs some glue, but feel free to try it.</div>
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In Rocky mountains I did a very nice bouldering tick list in a day. I sent <span style="color: cyan;">The kind traverse 8a 2nd go</span>,<span style="color: cyan;"> Veritas assis 8a flash</span>, <span style="color: cyan;">Storm shadow 8a+</span> and<span style="color: cyan;"> Veritas low 8a+</span>.</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">very nice and cold cave on the way to the wall</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">the view from the path</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">route from the ground</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Vezi in 7c pitch</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">having some fun before real business</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Some shade before hardest pitch</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">back in the car- the survivals</span></div>
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Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-31730736204124475432015-03-20T08:23:00.003-07:002015-03-20T08:23:32.505-07:00Team trip to FontIt's so sad, when I sit on sofa and realize, that I won't be back to Font for at least until October. From on, it's going to be really hard to train in the gym, but luckily my will is to strong to feel sad about it. Feels so good to be strong and knowing that I still have some time left to get even stronger. About Font, I only prepared some photos of our great coach Roman Krajnik and a tick list of what I climbed and what I should have climbed. On first few days I didn't send anything hard, but on 4th day of a trip I sent first <span style="color: cyan;">8a</span>. It was quite easy one, named <span style="color: cyan;">Synapses</span>. After that, I came so close to The big island 8c, which I did in 2 parts and also had a great sending mode on my 5th day of climbing. I one day I sent <span style="color: cyan;">Tigre et Dragon 8a</span>, <span style="color: cyan;">Le Tuit du Greau 8a</span>, <span style="color: cyan;">Magic Circus 8a </span>and <span style="color: cyan;">3rd ascent</span> od <span style="color: cyan;">L'illusion du choix 8b</span>. I also <span style="color: cyan;">flash</span>ed some problems up to <span style="color: cyan;">7c</span>.<br />
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On the last day I did Rainbow rocket for 3 times in 30 seconds :)<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">The big island 8c</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">L'illusion du choix</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Tigre et Dragon</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Tristesse 7c</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: start;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Le Tuit du Greau 8a</span></span></div>
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<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-15579313270096604432015-03-05T12:31:00.002-08:002015-03-05T12:31:28.322-08:00New sector in OplotnicaToday I developed a new sector at Oplotnica, together with Varga and Škofic. I just wanted to check out an old quarry, which turned out as a cool playing ground. It was so good, cause it didn't need any cleaning and cause it's so different to climb. We opened 8 lines up to 8a and there are still projects that need to be climbed. Now everyone can find something for himself and also an ambient and landings are very nice.<br />
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Here is a link to the topo: <a href="https://27crags.com/crags/oplotnica/topos/kamnolom">https://27crags.com/crags/oplotnica/topos/kamnolom</a><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Dinamit</span></div>
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Dyno Myth, around 8a+/b</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Bermudski trikotnik</span></div>
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<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-52650465762415145192015-02-22T06:21:00.000-08:002015-02-22T09:35:42.309-08:00Short break from plasticYes, it's true. I was able to make an agreement with my coaches , to skip few training sessions and go to Ticino. First plan was to stay there for 5 days, but unfortunately rain made it shorter. If I'm honest, I'm not that sad as I used to be when those things happened, cause I sent almost everything I tried. Even warm ups were easier than usually.<br />
So we arrived on Wednesday (on the day after big party back home) straight to Schaatental in Chironico, where I made quick ascent on <span style="color: cyan;">Conqustador direct 8b</span> - last time I tried it I fell from top for 3 times and this time went down very easily. We moved to Cresciano, where the weather was a bit better and there, I took down few things that I couldn't do few trips ago. So I sent <span style="color: cyan;">La prue 8b</span> and <span style="color: cyan;">Un Ange Avec des Cornes 8a+</span> and on the next day<span style="color: cyan;"> Dream time stand 8a+</span> and <span style="color: cyan;">Petit pas tapen 8a</span>. For the next time I left Dream time and quite a lot of things in Chironico.<br />
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Here is also a short clip:<br />
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<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/P5vYlOK2R-I/0.jpg" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/P5vYlOK2R-I?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">La prue</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSLEOrwm_u0RuUga6AaL4lh2eiRPzR93V1503pBWJn3BnWFwr7WfriDIXcIZAHhrXbMuuZ0riQxAHFelDIUUGfMEy424KfZleI1PeIMBvzPqmfEXiGMCq56wYT4a31YwRtKKVIziQnp4A/s1600/01.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSLEOrwm_u0RuUga6AaL4lh2eiRPzR93V1503pBWJn3BnWFwr7WfriDIXcIZAHhrXbMuuZ0riQxAHFelDIUUGfMEy424KfZleI1PeIMBvzPqmfEXiGMCq56wYT4a31YwRtKKVIziQnp4A/s1600/01.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Petit pas tapen</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">dinner time</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">hotel room...</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">...with the view</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">with sis Julija</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Julija trying Arcadia</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">La prue</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Trying La nave va</span></div>
<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-38490602492094937522015-01-13T00:52:00.000-08:002015-01-13T00:54:36.702-08:00New season is about to startNew season is about to start and I'm trying to finish some projects in Mišja peč. This place has been my playground for last 2 months and I've done some hard stuff by this time. I already told you about some hard routes, but I'm happy I can tell you, I also snet some more. So, around and after new year I have sent another <span style="color: cyan;">8c</span> called <span style="color: cyan;">Corrida</span>, <span style="color: cyan;">Gorenjski šnops 8b</span> and very rare repeated<span style="color: cyan;"> No fly zone 8b</span>. I have also <span style="color: cyan;">on sight</span>ed <span style="color: cyan;">Ljubezen na prvi pogled</span> and <span style="color: cyan;">Šunka</span>, both graded <span style="color: cyan;">7c+</span>. My biggest wish is to climb my first 9a and I luckily found one that fits my style. It is Xaxid hostel and I'm very happy, that I already climbed it with just one fall. So fingers crossed for this and of course for the new competition season!<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Xaxid hostel 9a, photo by Luka Fonda</span></div>
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<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-728056855191986202014-12-28T05:26:00.000-08:002014-12-28T05:26:10.292-08:00Winter "rest"Hello everyone!<br />
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Haven't published anything for a while, so I think I owe you a story. So, the first story is about La sportive legends only. I know, people expected a lot from me and I know I gave my best, but the result wasn't great. I really had not trained a lot before this comp, cause I was working and really didn't want to do a lot of bouldering in this time. This was also the reason that I fell from the top on the first boulder, which took me all the powers away, so I was quite lucky that I managed to climb at leaf one of them. This small "mistake" costed me a lot, but I know everything could turned different other way. Anyway, it was such a nice experience to compete with those pros and to see, that I'm actually not that far from them with my climbing. Hope I'll compete again next year and thanks everyone for such an amazing event!<br />
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Okay, the second story is about my rest from bouldering. I usually spend it on sport climbing routes and this year I chose Slovenian Primorska. I needed few days to get used of pumping and after few visits I climbed my first "hard" route. It was <span style="color: cyan;">Pikova dama 8b</span> and than few days later, I got even bigger surprise, when sending endurance masterpiece <span style="color: cyan;">Karizma 8b+</span> in less than 10 tries. Later on, I had a small crisis when trying to send <span style="color: cyan;">Človek ne jezi</span> <span style="color: cyan;">se 8c</span>, but was able to do moves in Xaxid hostel. After few frustrating days, I finally managed to connect the cruxes in first part and than decided to continue to the top. The conditions were a bit better than last time, so that try was successful for me. That was my first 8c+ with confirmed grade, but I can easily say, that the other two <span style="color: cyan;">8c+</span> (botulin an In time) FA's are even harder than this one. More surprising was, that this route is very long and that I consider my self as a boulder climber.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">upper crux in Človek ne jezi se</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Karizma, photo by: Luka Tambača</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Karizma</span></div>
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Here's also my movie from Font, if you haven't seen it yet:<br />
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<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-24961900687639590442014-11-26T03:08:00.000-08:002014-11-26T03:08:49.111-08:00Story from FinlandThis story is unfortunately about to end quite soon. But I must say that the last month that I spent here in Helsinki was amazing. Surrounded with such a nice people and crazy looking landscapes, makes you wanna stay or even live here.<br />
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So, my main purpose to came here, was route setting in Isatais open and to coach my friend Henna. She gave me a nice warm place to stay and I tried to give her best training sessions, so she can complete her goals. First thanks goes to her, cause without her, my trip to Finland would never happen and second, I have to thanks Niina and Anssi for hosting me and taking me to the rocks in this cold, winter conditions.<br />
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My main goal about climbing here, was to climb this very famous and nice looking line, called Globalist. When I first tried it this time, I thought it's gonna be piece of cake, but than on the same day, I got a split on my finger. It wasn't painful or anything, it was just pain in the ass, cause this crimper where I got a cut, is very delicate. In the hope, the skin is gonna grow, I was keep trying it and split it every time I tried it. There was a day, when I did it in two parts, but the conditions didn't let me do it after that. So I decided I'm gonna try something else, something dry and not so friction dependent. Quite only possible line to try around here, was <span style="color: cyan;">Hypergravity 8b</span>, where you have to walk for 45 minutes and you can only warm up on this line. On the first day, there was some snow already, but I was still able to do all the moves. Small amounts of training in last month, made me feel weak after first few moves, so I couldn't do it on first day. I rested for a day and on my last climbing day here, I managed to sent it. It was perfect end of day, cause I did it in night session, than we had a proper beer with Anssi and of course sauna for the end.<br />
There was also a day, when we went to a small crag in Sipoo, where I climbed <span style="color: cyan;">One for Sorrow (7c+/8a)</span> and managed to do the first ascent of this beautiful arete on the left. I named it <span style="color: cyan;">Level up</span> and with the crux on the top, I think it deserves <span style="color: cyan;">7b(e5)</span> grade. I also <span style="color: cyan;">flash</span>ed <span style="color: cyan;">One love 7c(+)</span> in Globalist block.<br />
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Tomorrow, my trip is continuing to my last competition of this season to Stockholm (SWE), for La sportiva legends only. This is going to be my last contact with bouldering this year, cause it's been really physically exhausting doing it all year long. I'll do my best and I hope, I'll have some extra powers left to make this competition perfect.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Hypergravity, photo: Anssi Laatikainen</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Hypergravity</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">One for Sorrow(right), Level up (left)</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Level up</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Jos of Finnish winter </span></div>
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<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4535094632857874039.post-70753337006599199772014-11-03T05:58:00.001-08:002014-11-03T05:58:12.241-08:00FontainebleauHello!<br />
You haven't heard from me for a while. Hope you won't blame me too much for being late, so I brought you some good news from Font and a local competition in Zagreb.<br />
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I promised my friends from Zagreb, that I'll be there for their local comp and must say, it wasn't that easy as it sounds. Well my mind was off for the comps, so it was hard to show all of my skills. Also competition was very strong, even though there were "only" few Slovenians and Borna from Zagreb. Okay, after all I did my best and <span style="color: cyan;">won</span>.<br />
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After few days we left to Font, to free my mind on some rocks. It was very nice, not rainy, but still wanted a bit lower temps.My goal was to sand an 8b, but unfortunately fell from the top of L'apparemment bas. I'm still proud that I was managed to <span style="color: cyan;">flash</span> two 8a's (<span style="color: cyan;">L'apparemment</span> and <span style="color: cyan;">Rainbow rocket</span>) and that I did every dyno that I tried. My hardest was <span style="color: cyan;">Coup atomique 8a(+)</span> than <span style="color: cyan;">Red rocket 8a(+)</span>, <span style="color: cyan;">Rainbow rocket 8a (flash)</span>, <span style="color: cyan;">Soucis d'air 8a (#2 go)</span> and <span style="color: cyan;">Phobos moon 7c (flash)</span>.<br />
I also sent few very nice and quite hard boulders such as <span style="color: cyan;">Total eclipse 8a+</span>, <span style="color: cyan;">Big dragon 8a(+)</span>, <span style="color: cyan;">The block 8a</span>, <span style="color: cyan;">Fata morgana 8a</span>, <span style="color: cyan;">Megalithe 7c+ (#2 go)</span> and <span style="color: cyan;">Sale gosse 7c</span> and few <span style="color: cyan;">7c flash</span>es as <span style="color: cyan;">Welcome to Tijuana</span> and <span style="color: cyan;">La unit</span>.<br />
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Here is a short movie with some of my ascents from a friend Juha:<br />
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<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLRu6-lyz-s">Font movie</a><br />
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Oh and by the way. Before all that, I went to Paklenica where I climbed one of my hardest multi pitch routes named<span style="color: cyan;"> Cupido 8a (#2go)</span>. Here is a short report from my climber buddy Pinti:<br />
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<a href="http://pinticlimbs.blogspot.com/2014/10/paklenica-revisited.html">http://pinticlimbs.blogspot.com/2014/10/paklenica-revisited.html</a><br />
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You can also follow me on <a href="http://instagram.com/kruderjernej">Instagram</a>.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Total eclipse</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Big dragon</span></div>
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<br />Krudrozaverhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04806048112486080441noreply@blogger.com0