ponedeljek, 21. maj 2012

Wc Innsbruck and two 8a+ Fb

Frist time this year I tasted defeat with ending on 21st place in World cup. Missed the semis for two unnecessary tries. I was really pissed off so luckily Chris had some space in his van. We went to Zillertal, where are really nice gneiss boulders. First we (Jure and Klemen Bečan, David Barrans, Alexey Rubtsov, Chirs Webb Parsons and I) tried left version of American gangster which is graded 8a+. Almost flashed it, than needed around 15 tries to sent it. Also fell on last move in Spirit (8a+) on flash, than easily sent it second go.

Photo: Julija Kruder

nedelja, 13. maj 2012

Gipsy sanding day

Today we visited Zigeunerloch, area near Graz(AUT). First wanted to go to Črnotiče boulder area, but had noone to go with me. So Zorko and I went with my sisters who went to Mitterdorf to train a little. First we wormed up a little, than I tried to on sight one new 7c+ but I fell on the very top. Than I on sighted bouldery rote called Highway star (7c+/8a). After some rest I decided to give a try in a route which I have wanted to on sight for a long time now and it's called Zigeunerbaron graded 8b. Without any problem I climbed it like a real route climber. Route was climbed in 1988 by Christoph Grill and it's 35m high. Zorko climbed Grafin Mariza 8a.

Zigeunerloch cave

petek, 11. maj 2012

Free solo Guernica

On 7th of May I was climbing in local crag Kotečnik. After few routes I felt really strong so I decided to give a free solo try in Guernica 8a (15m). With 100% of trusting my self, I reached the top without any problems. I like this mental game, becouse I can trust rock, (Scarpa) shoes and myself. So everyone who's reading this, don't try to play jackass, if you're not 100% sure you're gonna make it.

Photo: Matjaž Zorko

torek, 8. maj 2012

Melloblocco 2012

Official boulder I sent

Last week, during driving back from Baratro, Fonda made me go with him to Melloblocco competition. We left on tuesday so wednesday we were climbing all day long. I climbed one 8a in Mello valley and some easy stuff around. Next day didn't send anything hard, but was enjoying the sun and nice ambience. Friday was the first day of competition and last dry day. I sent  2 official boulders and only 3 more guys sent one more. So I took 4th place with 4 more competitors.

First official boulder I sent