ponedeljek, 24. marec 2014

Expression and Sheffield

Hello! I'm back from Sheffield, so I owe you some promised things. First I'll try to be short about my trip to UK, cause I know you rather see my movie and some words about my new 8b+ boulder.

OK, I have nothing much to say about that trip, but it was productive. I didn't do so well on the comp, but the other days were great. I went to grit for 2 days and 2 days of indoor training. Outdoors I sent few problems up to 7c+, including few unfinished business from 2011.

 some alpi climbing

great team

feeling great on a grit

And now:

after 2 years of working on this hard project, I finally sent one of the hardest Slovenian problems. It was 8 moves overhang problem with really hard tensions. There are so many holds and so many different betas so I needed one year to figure out the easiest one. Actually it was Izi's beta, but it was so hard, that I was still trying to find easier one. I would say, this are the hardest moves I've ever connected and I'm going 8b+ with this one, no matter what others say. Already the first move is not so easy and after that, you continue into really powerful shoulder move. From here you have to lock your body position and grab next hold very precisely otherwise you can't progress. From here, another precise footwork and another hard shoulder move, from which I fell for so many tries. After that you are pretty much over, but still have to hold on till the end. 

The name was given by Izi and I think it deserves it: Expression of the uniqueness. It is now the hardest boulder in Golobove pečine, but also some hard things are still unrepeated:

- Meningitis 8b/b+,
- Britev za krvavitev 8b,
- The bells 8b,
- Cross my balls 8a+,
- Jake 8a+,
- Poker face 8a
(in total 14 problems above 8a level)

My next project is 65 moves overhang, which I can send in 2 parts. I talked to Domen and we said it could be at least 9a or even more. And there is also a route project, which can be at least 8c+ and I can also climb it in 2 parts.

Fingers cross for a good weather and thanks again to all my sponsors! Without you, nothing would be possible!

nedelja, 9. marec 2014

Show time

After a few weeks of bad weather and hard team training, I finally found time to go outdoors. I went to a local crag around Rogla, where I still had one project. Last time I was trying it, I couldn't link 5 moves. So last week, I was trying it a bit harder with Rok Klančnik and we managed to do all the moves. So on the 7. of March, I added a new 8 grade boulder (the other one is still unrepeated Prikrita realnost 8a). I named it Show time and the grade is 8b. It is very nice line, with 13 moves- few easy ones than one really long move and the hardest move is to hit mono pocket from a very bad sloper. From here, you have about 7b boulder problem to the top. I hope all the boulders around here, will get more ascents in the future.

I also did Herkules 7c+, which is in my opinion even harder than that and few easier ones.

Video in making!