Looking for conditions

Yesterday I went to Oplotnica in the afternoon for some night session, but even at 10:30 pm temperature didn't drop under 20 degrees Celsius. Still managed to do some second ascents in The split 8a, Unnamed 7c+ (maybe 8a) and also flashed Highlander 7b+. Also did the left exit of it, which is graded 7c.
Here is also a video from The split, where I took a bit different method the Rok.

World cup Innsbruck

Again another unlucky comp for me. Ok, but must admit, this time it was at least my mistake. I ended on not  so bad 7th place, which at least gave me more motivation that I belong to the top. I'm also very proud on my sister Julija, cause she did such a great job on her second world cup. It was her first semifinals and she even did better job than in qualification round. She ended on 14th place and so she is going with me to next two world cups over the sea. Shoulder is getting better, but I'm missing some hard trainings since China, but at least head is on the right place!

qualification round

semi finals

When everything goes wrong!

First apologize to all my fans who wished to see me in the last finals. First I'd like to say it wasn't my false, but I think it's better to forget what happened, cause it won't change anything. I'm only sad, cause I gave a competition without a fight and that I was very happy to I make it to the finals, cause I thought I couldn't climb with a pain in my shoulder. Hopefully shoulder gets better, so I can start training again and to prove the world, that I can be one of the best climbers in the world!

Thanks everyone for support! I'll need it those days.

Very good starting of the season, but unfortunately also unlucky

Hello!
This weekend we're having our third world cup in this season. Hopefully I'll be able to climb, as I was climbing in China (first world cup). In qualification I was the only one, who flashed all 5 boulders. Unfortunately I hurt my shoulder in first semi final boulder. I completed the whole competition and at the end I couldn't move my arm and I couldn't till the next competition. So on the next world cup in Baku I had to climb very carefully and had to lose some moves. Luckily I managed to climb one boulder in qualifications and made it to the semi's and at least I got some points. Now everything depends on today's visit at magnetic resonance. If it's not torn, than we can fix the injury with physiotherapist. So fingers crossed for today and of course for this weekend!

qualifications, Chongquing

semi's, Chongquing

qualifications, Baku

 semi's, Baku

New routes in Kanjon

On Wednesday, I bolted a "new" route named Titanik, which was already climbed in winter 2012, when the river below got frozen and did it with crash-pads. Later on, I did it also in the summer time, but this time decided to bolt it so everyone can try it. It's graded 7a Fb, but it should make it just 7b franch. I also bolted an extension of an old Binč's route named Yellowstone (7c+). I only put 3 bolts in the roof, but it made it a very nice 8b. Unfortunately it's a bit bouldery and morpho, so I named it Yellow river. Now feel free to try them all!

bolting Yellow river

me and Mičo doing Titanic

Expression and Sheffield

Hello! I'm back from Sheffield, so I owe you some promised things. First I'll try to be short about my trip to UK, cause I know you rather see my movie and some words about my new 8b+ boulder.

OK, I have nothing much to say about that trip, but it was productive. I didn't do so well on the comp, but the other days were great. I went to grit for 2 days and 2 days of indoor training. Outdoors I sent few problems up to 7c+, including few unfinished business from 2011.

 some alpi climbing

great team

feeling great on a grit

And now:

after 2 years of working on this hard project, I finally sent one of the hardest Slovenian problems. It was 8 moves overhang problem with really hard tensions. There are so many holds and so many different betas so I needed one year to figure out the easiest one. Actually it was Izi's beta, but it was so hard, that I was still trying to find easier one. I would say, this are the hardest moves I've ever connected and I'm going 8b+ with this one, no matter what others say. Already the first move is not so easy and after that, you continue into really powerful shoulder move. From here you have to lock your body position and grab next hold very precisely otherwise you can't progress. From here, another precise footwork and another hard shoulder move, from which I fell for so many tries. After that you are pretty much over, but still have to hold on till the end. 

The name was given by Izi and I think it deserves it: Expression of the uniqueness. It is now the hardest boulder in Golobove pečine, but also some hard things are still unrepeated:

- Meningitis 8b/b+,

- Britev za krvavitev 8b,

- The bells 8b,

- Cross my balls 8a+,

- Jake 8a+,

- Poker face 8a

(in total 14 problems above 8a level)

My next project is 65 moves overhang, which I can send in 2 parts. I talked to Domen and we said it could be at least 9a or even more. And there is also a route project, which can be at least 8c+ and I can also climb it in 2 parts.

Fingers cross for a good weather and thanks again to all my sponsors! Without you, nothing would be possible!

Show time

After a few weeks of bad weather and hard team training, I finally found time to go outdoors. I went to a local crag around Rogla, where I still had one project. Last time I was trying it, I couldn't link 5 moves. So last week, I was trying it a bit harder with Rok Klančnik and we managed to do all the moves. So on the 7. of March, I added a new 8 grade boulder (the other one is still unrepeated Prikrita realnost 8a). I named it Show time and the grade is 8b. It is very nice line, with 13 moves- few easy ones than one really long move and the hardest move is to hit mono pocket from a very bad sloper. From here, you have about 7b boulder problem to the top. I hope all the boulders around here, will get more ascents in the future.

I also did Herkules 7c+, which is in my opinion even harder than that and few easier ones.

Video in making!