sreda, 28. november 2012

Some rope climbing again

For las few days I decited to cross form bouldering to rope climbing foe a while. But soon realized, that it's not really my style. Specially if you climb in Mišja peč, which is so polished. I wanted to climb Konec mira (8c/c+), but I almost hit the ground once, so I gave up. For a few times I did it with only one rest, but looks like I should rope climbing for a while, to get used on pumping. But I was quite suprised, cuz I sent Sreča vrtnice (8b) in second go (if you don't count one try few years ago) and Matrix (8b) in the same day. so I can say, I'm not the best route climber, but still can do something. I also on sighted Preobrazba graded 7c+.

sobota, 17. november 2012

100. 8aFb or more

Strassenblock traverse is my 100. 8a or more for me. Till today I had 97 climbed problems, but today I added 3 more. The team of 3 climbers (Bizi, Varga, me) went to a boulder spot near Graz called St. Radegund. Thanks to Pašo, we came to a very unusual forest with only 4 block in it. First we stopped at 8a dyno, first climbed by Loskot and named Free Engelbert. First I flashed the traverse, which Bizi and Varga also sent it, graded 7c. Than I gave a flash attempt in dyno, but unfotunately I touched a pad. If you ask my friends, they would say I didn't, but let be honest. So I sent it 3rd go. Later we moved, and I flashed Sunny side up(8a)  and did Strassenblock traverse (8a) in second go. Also Varga and Bizi sent it. Than we moved do another block, where Hinterm Busch und Gusch route is. I heard it's graded 8a, but with using all the holds you can grab, it's not more than 7c. I also tried this 8a+ on the same block, but without success. Below this block, I opened new line, named it Oh long Johnson and I put grade 7c+.



Strasseblock traverse



Hinterm Busch und Gusch 




8a+


petek, 16. november 2012

Chillen und grillen

Ok, I decited to write something about quite unknown place in Austria called Huatluckn. This year I already climbed few hard stuff there mostly on sight and flash, but for red pointing 8b's was to hard for me there. So on wednesday, I had no choice, but to try only dry, hard route named Grillen und chillen. Even this route wasn't completely dry. So when I tried to on sight the route, I thought it's impossible to get over it. I think, I've never tried one route for more than 5 tries in a day, but that day I was forced to keep trying it over and over again to get all micro betas. The route contains only few hard moves, but you have to do everything precisely. So I sent very hard route, which is 8b+ in my opinion (maybe just beacouse of horrible conditions) in 5th try that day.


četrtek, 25. oktober 2012

Brione flash trip

For the first time I put together team for this bouldering trip to Brione. Without giude book and gps after 2 days we found area and all the important boulders we needed to get satisfied. So we started at Molonk 7c which Boško climbed and after I flashed. So I started a flashing trip here. Later I flashed Cellar door 8a and also Boško was close to flash attempt. Later he luckily sent it. We moved to a very nice block near the water where I flashed another 8a named Fake Pamplemousse. Next day we came back and I flashed Frogger 8a. Unfortunately it was to try hard on Amber 8b. On Monday I did something I have wished for a long time- to climb a 8b boulder in Switzerland. In two short sessions I sent General Disarray. In total maybe 5 serious tries from beginning. Last day we climbed few classics and Boško and Bizi sent Frogger. Photos I will upload as soon as I get them. Also I have a video clip from sending Frogger.


sreda, 10. oktober 2012

Angry birds

And we have another 8a boulder called Angry Birds on Jurgovo. I could say it's the best boulder so far I have ever climbed, but everything here is so beautiful. What can I say, I would like to invite all the strong climber to repeat hard stuff and try new projects around. Video follows!

petek, 5. oktober 2012

Prince of darkness

Finally some good news from me! Yesterday I sent my second 8b boulder this year (after Incubator) in Černotiče, called Prince of darkness. After an unsuccessful attempt 5 days ago, when I fell from the top, now I did first repetition after Boško. It's it the best line in this cave, but still, I got some stuff to get done there. I also flashed two 7b's, but unfortunately tractor accident next to area prevent me to send something else. Anyway, I'm glad that we where there and saved man's life. He was sent to hospital, but I think he is gonna be fine. Now the temperatures are going to be lower, so I hope I'll sand something harder.

 See you soon!