Last World Cup and European Championship

World cup is over! In Munich there was last competition and a week later it was European Championship. I'm not really satisfied with my climbing, special Eindhoven. I was really weak before competitions, but luckily managed to train hard with our team coach Roman and with the whole team in Bayern's  gyms. I only have 2 competitions left and than I'll climb outside as much as possible. I ended on 11 th place in World Cup overall and really bad 31 st place in European Championship. I met so many nice competitors there, so I feel a bit better now and don't think about bad climbing any more.

Rocklands 2013

Ok, here I am with my news from the last trip to Rocklands. I was there for 6 weeks, so don't be mad on me cause I'm gonna be short. With a small team of Slovenian climbers(me and Miha Hribar) I left to climbing Meka in South Africa. On the very first day I tried to stay away from hard things, but i couldn't  resist  those beautiful grey an orange sandstone. So on the first day I already flashed one 8a (Gliding through waves like dolphins). Next day I was really close to flash my first 8a+ (Oral office), but it didn't happen. So I had to try it one more time. #3 day of climbing there was even more successful. I sent an "ex" 8b+ in third go and I flashed my first 8a+ (A tea with Elmarie) which I believe it's more 8a. On my #4 day of climbing the problems has started. I stretched my rib muscle so I couldn't climb hard for almost 3 weeks. At least I did one 8a (Golden Virginia) this day. I tried something hard so until first hard ascent I sent few 8a's and on 16. of July I sent Sky which was one of my main goals and I needed just 4 tries. It was originally graded 8b+, but I think it's really specific so I think it deserve 8b. On the same day I flesh my second 8a+ (Brown shadow) and few days before my first real 8a+ (Shosholoza). Few day later I was so unlucky again. During flash attempt in The arc, I fell from the very top and hurt my foot. Luckily I was able to finish some of my tick list problems including #4 ascent in Air star, which I think it was my hardest climbed boulder in Rocklands. On 24. I was so close to flash my and Slovenian first 8b (Madiba). It was freezing cold so I fell from the last jug, cause I couldn't feel my fingers. Meanwhile I flashed few 8a(+) and tried surfing in Atlantic Ocean. There were so many boulders left I wanted to sent, but I was too exhausted and it was too hot to send some more. Including very nice El Corazon (8b), which I fell from the very last move on the last day there.

But most of all, I will miss all great people I met there and I must say Thank you again for really nice company!!!

List of some harder boulders:

- Black velvet 8a, #2 go
- Who the fuck is Minki? 7c, flash
- Hole in one 7c+, flash
- Gliding through waves like dolphins 8a, flash
- Un Pincon d'Herbes 7c, flash
- Caroline 7c+, flash
- Oral office 8a+, #2 go
- White Mazda clan 7c+, flash
- Mooiste Meisie 8b(+), #3 go
- Ron Ron et Caramel 7c+, flash
- The ful Tony tick 8a
- A tea with Elmarie 8a(+), flash
- Golden Virginia 8a, #2 go
- Fat eagle can't fly 8a
- Armed response 8a+(b)
- Royksopp 8a, flash
- Umbuli 7c(+), flash
- Purple nipple clan 8a
- Leap of faith 8a, #4 go
- Shosholoza 8a+, flash
- Sky 8b(+), #4 go
- Brown shadow 8a+, flash
- Black shadow 8a+, #2 go
- In between dreams 8a(+)
- Witness the sickness 8a, flash
- The arc 8a, #2 go
- Flying guitar thief 8a+
- Battle of the skink 7c, flash
- Timeout 7c, flash
- The amphitheatre 8a(+), flash
- Madiba 8b
- Pendragon 8a
- Impala 8a
- Air star 8b
- Barracuda 8a, #2 go
- La chute 8a
- Throw your self away 7c+, flash

The arc- hurt my foot

trying Ray of light

trying El corazon

rest day kayaking

just hanging around

fell from top

Witness the sickness, 8a flash

trying Ray of light 2

trying some other hard stuff

having fun on dildo

Sky 8b(+)

Sky 8b(+) 2

Rhino 7b+ (one of the classics)

Mooiste Meisie 8b(+)

Armed response 8a+(b)

Air star 8b

rest day on beach

lobster on the meal

some protests in Istanbul

Grapafest 2013

And it's done! First outdoor climbing competition in Golobove pečine. With a really great team, we were able to create one of the best outdoor climbing festivals in Slovenia. We've been working really hard last 2 weeks, so climbers (from all over Slovenia, even Croatia) were able to try more than 30 very beautiful lines from 3 to 7c and got free meal, Redbull and map of boulders. They started at 10 am and finished at 5 pm. 6 best men and 3 best women were fighting at afternoons finals. The best performance showed Rok Klančnik and Tjaša Rutar. #2 an #3 were Klemen Kejžar and Gorazd Hren at men and Anja Šerbinek and Tamara Omerzel at women. Rok did the best in all 3 final boulders (also flashed one of them- Inbox 7b+) and also did  #2 ascent in Pravim haos 8a. Even non- competitior Anže Varga climbed 2 8a's (Pravim haos, Knights of Jaguar). They got some nice prizes from 5.10 and some other practical prizes. After ceremony we had some Bograč and a lot of beer, night climbing and of course party with very good DJ Kačič. I hope to see you next year in same number. Hundred!

Bograč

orange vibe

Croatian company

orange vibe 2

death alien in orange vibe

Pr' Grabnvalerji

Kejžar on the last hold of Minimal, 7b+

Slatnska banda

prečke

chilling place

crowd

wall for night climbing

red vibe

red vibe 2

Boško won heat

Hribar in Jaguar

Žužel in Kremšnita

Žužel in Želvomat

Dolenc in Želvomat

yellow vibe

Tjaša in Kremšnita

nice conditions 

Boško in Kremšnita

Canada, America 2013

This time I arrived to Canada a bit sooner to climb outside. Me and Klemen went to Squamish, but it was raining unfortunately for a most of the time. So we tried to climb as much as it was possible. We made 3 tries in Dreamcatcher each, but no success. Time, humidity and jet lag were on our way, but at least we enjoyed trying it. I also did The egg 8a. After we were training indoor in Vancouver. In Toronto I did very well in qualification round, but it was too hard for me in semis to get to the finals. I liked the wall and whole organization there, so I was pretty sad not being in the finals(ended on 11th place). At least felt much stronger in Vail than, probably because of all the previous trainings in The spot and in The hive. But again did a stupid mistake and missed the finals for only one try. Actually I could climb last 2 boulders, but in one I found the beta too late and the other I fell after the hardes move so I was 7th. But that's life. Anyway I'm going to Rocklands where I have nothing to lose. Until than, I'll try to climb around my hometown and send something new.

The egg 8a, Squamish

WC Toronto

Wc Vail

The day before we left, we visited very nice boulderning area in  Colorado named Indenpendence pass near ski area Aspen. I did a second ascent in  Wild hair 8a.

World cup nr.4 and 5

Before going to Canada and US, I would like to write something about last 2 world cups. The first one happened at home Log- Dragomer, where I felt really strong. After a super great qualifications a made a small mistake in the semis and didn't climb the easiest boulder. That put me on #11 place. Even bigger mistake I made this weekend in Innsbruck in qualification round already. Cuz of the really bad organization, they were forced to cancel one boulder, which placed me on ever lower position. I still have a motivation for a better results North America. Next time, I'm writing  you from Squamish.

 WC Log- Dragomer

WC Innsbruck