torek, 20. avgust 2013

Rocklands 2013

Ok, here I am with my news from the last trip to Rocklands. I was there for 6 weeks, so don't be mad on me cause I'm gonna be short. With a small team of Slovenian climbers(me and Miha Hribar) I left to climbing Meka in South Africa. On the very first day I tried to stay away from hard things, but i couldn't  resist  those beautiful grey an orange sandstone. So on the first day I already flashed one 8a (Gliding through waves like dolphins). Next day I was really close to flash my first 8a+ (Oral office), but it didn't happen. So I had to try it one more time. #3 day of climbing there was even more successful. I sent an "ex" 8b+ in third go and I flashed my first 8a+ (A tea with Elmarie) which I believe it's more 8a. On my #4 day of climbing the problems has started. I stretched my rib muscle so I couldn't climb hard for almost 3 weeks. At least I did one 8a (Golden Virginia) this day. I tried something hard so until first hard ascent I sent few 8a's and on 16. of July I sent Sky which was one of my main goals and I needed just 4 tries. It was originally graded 8b+, but I think it's really specific so I think it deserve 8b. On the same day I flesh my second 8a+ (Brown shadow) and few days before my first real 8a+ (Shosholoza). Few day later I was so unlucky again. During flash attempt in The arc, I fell from the very top and hurt my foot. Luckily I was able to finish some of my tick list problems including #4 ascent in Air star, which I think it was my hardest climbed boulder in Rocklands. On 24. I was so close to flash my and Slovenian first 8b (Madiba). It was freezing cold so I fell from the last jug, cause I couldn't feel my fingers. Meanwhile I flashed few 8a(+) and tried surfing in Atlantic Ocean. There were so many boulders left I wanted to sent, but I was too exhausted and it was too hot to send some more. Including very nice El Corazon (8b), which I fell from the very last move on the last day there.

But most of all, I will miss all great people I met there and I must say Thank you again for really nice company!!!

List of some harder boulders:

- Black velvet 8a, #2 go
- Who the fuck is Minki? 7c, flash
- Hole in one 7c+, flash
- Gliding through waves like dolphins 8a, flash
- Un Pincon d'Herbes 7c, flash
- Caroline 7c+, flash
- Oral office 8a+, #2 go
- White Mazda clan 7c+, flash
- Mooiste Meisie 8b(+), #3 go
- Ron Ron et Caramel 7c+, flash
- The ful Tony tick 8a
- A tea with Elmarie 8a(+), flash
- Golden Virginia 8a, #2 go
- Fat eagle can't fly 8a
- Armed response 8a+(b)
- Royksopp 8a, flash
- Umbuli 7c(+), flash
- Purple nipple clan 8a
- Leap of faith 8a, #4 go
- Shosholoza 8a+, flash
- Sky 8b(+), #4 go
- Brown shadow 8a+, flash
- Black shadow 8a+, #2 go
- In between dreams 8a(+)
- Witness the sickness 8a, flash
- The arc 8a, #2 go
- Flying guitar thief 8a+
- Battle of the skink 7c, flash
- Timeout 7c, flash
- The amphitheatre 8a(+), flash
- Madiba 8b
- Pendragon 8a
- Impala 8a
- Air star 8b
- Barracuda 8a, #2 go
- La chute 8a
- Throw your self away 7c+, flash

The arc- hurt my foot

trying Ray of light

trying El corazon

rest day kayaking

just hanging around

fell from top

Witness the sickness, 8a flash

trying Ray of light 2

trying some other hard stuff

having fun on dildo

Sky 8b(+)

Sky 8b(+) 2

Rhino 7b+ (one of the classics)

Mooiste Meisie 8b(+)

Armed response 8a+(b)

Air star 8b

rest day on beach

lobster on the meal

some protests in Istanbul

Grapafest 2013

And it's done! First outdoor climbing competition in Golobove pečine. With a really great team, we were able to create one of the best outdoor climbing festivals in Slovenia. We've been working really hard last 2 weeks, so climbers (from all over Slovenia, even Croatia) were able to try more than 30 very beautiful lines from 3 to 7c and got free meal, Redbull and map of boulders. They started at 10 am and finished at 5 pm. 6 best men and 3 best women were fighting at afternoons finals. The best performance showed Rok Klančnik and Tjaša Rutar. #2 an #3 were Klemen Kejžar and Gorazd Hren at men and Anja Šerbinek and Tamara Omerzel at women. Rok did the best in all 3 final boulders (also flashed one of them- Inbox 7b+) and also did  #2 ascent in Pravim haos 8a. Even non- competitior Anže Varga climbed 2 8a's (Pravim haos, Knights of Jaguar). They got some nice prizes from 5.10 and some other practical prizes. After ceremony we had some Bograč and a lot of beer, night climbing and of course party with very good DJ Kačič. I hope to see you next year in same number. Hundred!


orange vibe

Croatian company

orange vibe 2

death alien in orange vibe

Pr' Grabnvalerji

Kejžar on the last hold of Minimal, 7b+

Slatnska banda


chilling place


wall for night climbing

red vibe

red vibe 2

Boško won heat

Hribar in Jaguar

Žužel in Kremšnita

Žužel in Želvomat

Dolenc in Želvomat

yellow vibe

Tjaša in Kremšnita

nice conditions 

Boško in Kremšnita