And here s an article of first competition this year. It was in Prestranek (Postojna) and for me it was just another team training. Anyway, there was really strong competition from all over Slovenia and even my friend Rustam Gelmanov came to compete with us. Unfortunately he didn't climb enough boulders in qualification round to be in best 6 finalists. After qualifications I was the best with 25 tries for 23 boulders. Nobody couldn't climb 2 of them. In the finals there were 3 boulders and after that, only 2 best climbers went to an extra boulder. Jure Bečan and I did 2 boulders (I flashed both of them and Jure did one more try I guess) and I'm so mad, cuz I was the only one who reached the last hold in third one, but unfortunately fell from matching it. In extra boulder we were quite tired, so non of us couldn't make it to the top, even though we were both really close.
So that made me a winner of a really nice competition, which I hope it will continue in the future!
And here is also my report from another great trip to Finland.
I came there to set some boulders for opening of a new boulder gym named Isatis, but I didn't know that there will be so much people. So with some help we set more than 50 boulders for 200 competitors. It was hard, but I really enjoyed it, cause I also had to set 5 final boulders. So best 4 competitors from a Saturday's qualifications made it to the finals on Sunday, where they had to compete also with me and Rustam Gelmanov. It was really bad for me, cause I already knew the problems, but luckily I was "disqualified" (climbed all of them). The best job did Andy Gullsten who climbed 4 problems. Anyway, I was so happy about positive feedback from competitors for such a good setting- it was one of my best gift I got in Finland.
I must also say, that I was climbing outdoors, where I sent Hottentotti assis 8a+Fb and I was swimming in the frozen lake. For all of that I must say thank you to Henna and Jarmo, who actually put me into this, giving me bad and food(and milion other things) and helped me finding a new sponsor. So I got home with 2 sponsors (thank you both again) :
In the whole story from Spain, I didn't mention one of my biggest success of my life. On the first day of this year, I hardly convince my very good friend and alpinist Bojan Hribernik to go with me and try really hard multi pitch. The name of the route is Ortega- Camacho and it's located in Montsant. It's not really the longest route in the world, but it was still a challenge, cause it was on sight attempt and cause the last 2 pitches were the hardest. First 2 led Alpi (6c+,6b+) and the other 2 were mine. It was still creepy for me, even though I had all the quickdraws in. So the third pitch was the hardest and it was graded 8a. After that I was really happy but still nervous, cause I had to on sight another 7c+ pitch, which was very overhanging. I was really scared, but still managed to climb last one too. I'm really proud now and I got some motivation for more hard multi pitches in the future. After all, this might be the hardest Slovenian on sight multi pitch. If somebody knows this information, let me know.
actually we started in wrong route, so first pitch was even harder me and Alpi after hardest pitch
on the top of the wall(from left: me,Alpi, Škofic and Bečko), Bečko and Škofic climbed another easyer multi pitch
First, happy new year to everybody who read my blog! I'm writing now about my ascents which have happened around new year in Spain and also on home ground. Before new year's trip I visited Mišja peč for the last time in old year and made a quick ascent in Vizija 8c and Uživancija 8a. So with really good motivation and good company I left to Spain. On the first day I was still tired from a long drive, but was still able to on sight Anabolica 8a and flash Un rato en cada postura 8a. From now on I have sent 9 routes with grade 8a (4 on sights an 2 flashes), one 8a+ which I marked as the best route in the world, 6 8b (two of them on sight) and my first 8c abroad Los ultimos vampiros hippies which I sent in only 4 tries. I was also very close to Bumaye 8c+ which I managed to sent in 2 parts, but unfortunately ran out of climbing days.
Now 2 weeks of rest, than start to prepare for successful season.
After a hard bouldering season I decided to climb some "easier" routes, just to make my body feel rested. So I avoid all the harder and short routes. I thought Mišja is the best for this style I was actually looking for and that's why I sent most of the routes there. So I'll just start with my best send, which is my third 8b on sight in my entire life. That was Rocket Max 8b and I'm also very happy for another on sight in Granuille 8a both in Kompanj. And here is the list of my 8a's and up from last month: Triad 8a, Bastilla 8a+, Figaro 8a+, Lucky Luke 8b, Chiquita 8b/b+, Soul kitchen 8b(+), JSFK 8b, Bastilla 8b+ and Sanje za dušo 8b+.
I also won the last national boulder cup, but unfortunately ended on 3rd place overall cuz I skipped one of two competitions(I was competing in Arco rock master).
When I heard a news about me going to world cup in Kranj, I decided to get some endurance. Of course it's not as easy as it sounds (specially for boulderer), but at least I tried. I said I am ready for the world cup when I climb one of my old project in Mišja peč. Must say that I though I'm ready when I sent Millenium 8b+ (which is, by the way the longest route in Mišja) and did some endurance trainings, but I got pumped anyway. I wasn't really angry, but I know I could do it much better, if I wanted to compete in lead. Before Kranj finals we went to Mišja again and I really surprised my self with doing Kaj ti je deklica? 8b+ in only few tries. I also on sighted 7b+ and 7c.