Before going to Canada and US, I would like to write something about last 2 world cups. The first one happened at home Log- Dragomer, where I felt really strong. After a super great qualifications a made a small mistake in the semis and didn't climb the easiest boulder. That put me on #11 place. Even bigger mistake I made this weekend in Innsbruck in qualification round already. Cuz of the really bad organization, they were forced to cancel one boulder, which placed me on ever lower position. I still have a motivation for a better results North America. Next time, I'm writing you from Squamish.
This weekend, our coach Simon organized superb bouldering competition in Prestranek. First, it was supposed to be a nationals, but something went wrong with approval. Anyway it was fun, because the rules were a bit different. During the day we had 2,5 hours for the qualification round, where we had 20 boulders to flash. I managed to climb 19 of them, which placed me on second position right after Rustam Gelmanov, who toped all off them. In the finals were also Domen Škofic, Urban Primožič, Sergej Epih and Gregor Vezonik.
With the finals, we started at 9 pm with very nice atmosphere (blue lights and holds with flashing colours). First we had 3 boulders and 3 tries per each. The best 3 climbers progressed to the final boulder on the big wall where the top hold was about 6 meters of the ground. For this one, the best 3 were not limited by tries, it was only the matter, who's going to climb it first. With 2 tops I was second after Domen and third was Rustam who started with this "high ball". All of us failed the first try, but luckily I was the one, who did it second go. That made me a winner of this great competition.
At women's, Mina took the first place, second was Janja and third was my little sister Julija. I'm so sad that she couldn't the the first move, because further moves were just for her.
Last week I was lucky to visit the World of spotrs in Herzogenaurach with slovenian climbing team to get know the adidas brand better and to get some new clothing. I must say that I'm suprised about how hudge the whole system and complex is. I really like this brand so I hope, that some day I'll be part of it too (not only sponsored by team).
New green color for Slovenia.
Next days we spent around Germany in different gyms like Cafe Craft, Boulderwelt Munich and Regensburg , Fifgt club and even some outdoor climbing in Franken Jura. I had a really good time in Gremany cuz all the people were really nice and cuz we train really hard. That was probably the reason for my finals after a long time. That happened on world cup in Kitzbuehl (AUT) where I had finally some luck again and climbed as I'm able to. I finished on 6th place witch maybe doesn't sounds great, but for me it is cuz competition was very strong.
So I'm looking forward for another good result on next world cup in Log- Dragomer in Slovenia. Warmly welcome!
Yesterday i visited our local crag Čreta. I had nothing in plan, so I tries some new routes in sector Pjes mater and flashed one 7b+. After I climbed Pune bombe v ovinek (8a+) which is variation of my FA La la land (8b+).
And again some good new from Pohorje- we have some new stuff:
Yesterday i went to Osp with Bizi and I must say, i don't regret that becouse i enumerated some good ascents. I started with 8a+ on sight named Martinova gos, than another on sight in RKc (8a) and for the dot on the i sent Vegas 7 (8a+) second go. Let's move on!!
Haven't been writting you for a while and it's becouse we've had really bad weather every since new year trip. Since than I found only one day to send something outside, but i guess it's not a special news. So ok, i climbed an unnamed boulder of Klem Lostkot somewhere around Graz and it's graded with 8a. So remaining time i've been training indoor for a future world cups. I think i'm quite strong now, but i sill screw up the semis in Chongquing, after leading the qualifications. I ended on 10th place- quite good, but not good enough for my expectations and skills. Next week it's a new opportunity to show up my abilities.
And here are some words about my feelings from my last trip to Ticino. First I have to say that I was there with really strong Slovenian team and that we climbed 24 boulders with grade 8a or more. We started with 8b+ which I climbed on the first day we got there. I did The dagger, which I already worked out last year for the new year. I must say that I couldn't dream about 8c before, but somehow I knew before the trip that, if I climb dagger fast, I can try the sit start of it. After I climbed The dagger, I tried first 6 moves which I did one by one with some problems. But I switch the mind and I said: If I did all the moves, than it's possible to make it one. So on the third day on it, I already fell from the last hold and from that moment, it was just the matter of time when I'll get the pass. After that day I had a lot of problems with starting moves, temperatures and endurance (falling from the last move for 10 times at least). So one day I went with my friends to Chironico to relax my mind a bit and by mistake made a quick ascent of Delusion of Grandeur, 8b. That was actually second go for me, but I slightly remember I tried it few years ago, but I swear, I wasn't there longer than 5 minutes, cuz I couldn't move in it. And so it came 3. of January I we had to leave. Of course we couldn't leave and we extended the trip for another few days. And it came- the fourth day of new year. It brought better temperatures and it brought luck. I warmed up a bit, flashed an unknown 7c and moved to Dreamtime block. I felt strong, relaxed and I could feel warmth from inside and outside. After a minute I broke the boundary and put my first 8c (The story of 2 worlds) in the pocket. I can't describe feelings, but I can say that I'm really happy to climb such a boulder and make a fourth ascent. It definitely changed my view on 8c boulders, but still I know I'll have to do a lot to send more hard stuff. After I added another 8a to slovenian list, named Le piller. During the trip I also sent Arcadia sit, 7c+ and Eva did amazing send in Gay parade, 6b.