On Wednesday, I bolted a "new" route named Titanik, which was already climbed in winter 2012, when the river below got frozen and did it with crash-pads. Later on, I did it also in the summer time, but this time decided to bolt it so everyone can try it. It's graded 7a Fb, but it should make it just 7b franch. I also bolted an extension of an old Binč's route named Yellowstone (7c+). I only put 3 bolts in the roof, but it made it a very nice 8b. Unfortunately it's a bit bouldery and morpho, so I named it Yellow river. Now feel free to try them all!
Hello! I'm back from Sheffield, so I owe you some promised things. First I'll try to be short about my trip to UK, cause I know you rather see my movie and some words about my new 8b+ boulder.
OK, I have nothing much to say about that trip, but it was productive. I didn't do so well on the comp, but the other days were great. I went to grit for 2 days and 2 days of indoor training. Outdoors I sent few problems up to 7c+, including few unfinished business from 2011.
some alpi climbing
feeling great on a grit
after 2 years of working on this hard project, I finally sent one of the hardest Slovenian problems. It was 8 moves overhang problem with really hard tensions. There are so many holds and so many different betas so I needed one year to figure out the easiest one. Actually it was Izi's beta, but it was so hard, that I was still trying to find easier one. I would say, this are the hardest moves I've ever connected and I'm going 8b+ with this one, no matter what others say. Already the first move is not so easy and after that, you continue into really powerful shoulder move. From here you have to lock your body position and grab next hold very precisely otherwise you can't progress. From here, another precise footwork and another hard shoulder move, from which I fell for so many tries. After that you are pretty much over, but still have to hold on till the end.
The name was given by Izi and I think it deserves it: Expression of the uniqueness. It is now the hardest boulder in Golobove pečine, but also some hard things are still unrepeated:
- Meningitis 8b/b+,
- Britev za krvavitev 8b,
- The bells 8b,
- Cross my balls 8a+,
- Jake 8a+,
- Poker face 8a
(in total 14 problems above 8a level)
My next project is 65 moves overhang, which I can send in 2 parts. I talked to Domen and we said it could be at least 9a or even more. And there is also a route project, which can be at least 8c+ and I can also climb it in 2 parts.
Fingers cross for a good weather and thanks again to all my sponsors! Without you, nothing would be possible!
After a few weeks of bad weather and hard team training, I finally found time to go outdoors. I went to a local crag around Rogla, where I still had one project. Last time I was trying it, I couldn't link 5 moves. So last week, I was trying it a bit harder with Rok Klančnik and we managed to do all the moves. So on the 7. of March, I added a new 8 grade boulder (the other one is still unrepeated Prikrita realnost 8a). I named it Show time and the grade is 8b. It is very nice line, with 13 moves- few easy ones than one really long move and the hardest move is to hit mono pocket from a very bad sloper. From here, you have about 7b boulder problem to the top. I hope all the boulders around here, will get more ascents in the future.
I also did Herkules 7c+, which is in my opinion even harder than that and few easier ones.
And here s an article of first competition this year. It was in Prestranek (Postojna) and for me it was just another team training. Anyway, there was really strong competition from all over Slovenia and even my friend Rustam Gelmanov came to compete with us. Unfortunately he didn't climb enough boulders in qualification round to be in best 6 finalists. After qualifications I was the best with 25 tries for 23 boulders. Nobody couldn't climb 2 of them. In the finals there were 3 boulders and after that, only 2 best climbers went to an extra boulder. Jure Bečan and I did 2 boulders (I flashed both of them and Jure did one more try I guess) and I'm so mad, cuz I was the only one who reached the last hold in third one, but unfortunately fell from matching it. In extra boulder we were quite tired, so non of us couldn't make it to the top, even though we were both really close.
So that made me a winner of a really nice competition, which I hope it will continue in the future!
And here is also my report from another great trip to Finland.
I came there to set some boulders for opening of a new boulder gym named Isatis, but I didn't know that there will be so much people. So with some help we set more than 50 boulders for 200 competitors. It was hard, but I really enjoyed it, cause I also had to set 5 final boulders. So best 4 competitors from a Saturday's qualifications made it to the finals on Sunday, where they had to compete also with me and Rustam Gelmanov. It was really bad for me, cause I already knew the problems, but luckily I was "disqualified" (climbed all of them). The best job did Andy Gullsten who climbed 4 problems. Anyway, I was so happy about positive feedback from competitors for such a good setting- it was one of my best gift I got in Finland.
I must also say, that I was climbing outdoors, where I sent Hottentotti assis 8a+Fb and I was swimming in the frozen lake. For all of that I must say thank you to Henna and Jarmo, who actually put me into this, giving me bad and food(and milion other things) and helped me finding a new sponsor. So I got home with 2 sponsors (thank you both again) :
In the whole story from Spain, I didn't mention one of my biggest success of my life. On the first day of this year, I hardly convince my very good friend and alpinist Bojan Hribernik to go with me and try really hard multi pitch. The name of the route is Ortega- Camacho and it's located in Montsant. It's not really the longest route in the world, but it was still a challenge, cause it was on sight attempt and cause the last 2 pitches were the hardest. First 2 led Alpi (6c+,6b+) and the other 2 were mine. It was still creepy for me, even though I had all the quickdraws in. So the third pitch was the hardest and it was graded 8a. After that I was really happy but still nervous, cause I had to on sight another 7c+ pitch, which was very overhanging. I was really scared, but still managed to climb last one too. I'm really proud now and I got some motivation for more hard multi pitches in the future. After all, this might be the hardest Slovenian on sight multi pitch. If somebody knows this information, let me know.
actually we started in wrong route, so first pitch was even harder me and Alpi after hardest pitch
on the top of the wall(from left: me,Alpi, Škofic and Bečko), Bečko and Škofic climbed another easyer multi pitch