ponedeljek, 30. april 2012

WC Vienna and 8a+ on sight

Report Vienna:

Again I could make it to semi finals with a bit of luck. I ended on 21st position with 4 climbed boulders. I showed a lot of power in semis, but it wasn't enough to make it to the finals. 4 bonuses were enough and I made only 3 of them. But in all 3 boulders I was close as noone else. I hope I'll have more luck in Innsbruck. I finished on 12 place. My ranking is now #9 place on world cup.



Today I was in Baratro(Italy) and I on sighted Violenza carnale (8a) and Trilogy(first part) (8a+).


Arter first crux of Triology




First semis boulder

Second semis boulder


torek, 24. april 2012

World cup Log - Dragomer

It's the end of second world cup. This time in Log, Slovenia. Even it was local audience, couldn't reach the finals this time. 3rd boulder in semis was set up for my style of climbing, but sweaty fingers took too much power to stayed on slopy volume. After all, with such a strong competitors from all over the world #12 place wasn't that bad, was it? After two world cups I'm on #12 place (last year I was 21st).

semifinals, 3rd boulder

 Cross fingers for next world cup in Vienna this week!

petek, 20. april 2012

World cup Chongqing

First world cup is behind us! I took #14 place which is not that bad, but I know I can do much better. I made a mistake in second boulder in qualification round. I spent too many tries, I got pumped so I couldn't show what I'm able to do. Two days after competition we tried semis and final bouldes and I climbed enought boulders to take  podium. I hope I'll be more lucky in Log.



Don't worry about my health one day before D-day. Wish me the best!

četrtek, 05. april 2012

Happy rest day

Today I had rest day, so I decided to belay my younger sis Julija. She was so close to Dream team 7c+ last time, so she was back to send it. She needed only 3 tries(first go today). I'm so lucky to have such a strong little sister :) We also had a visitor in Kotečnik. Adam Ondra suprised us all with crushing Iluzija 8c on sight! He was also colse to Miza za šest and Botulin, both graded 8c+.

Photo: Luka Fonda

Respect!

sreda, 04. april 2012

Maltatal

Here I am again with some good news from malta (AUT) :

Photo: Andro

Bizi, Andro and me decided to go to feel some gneis. No matter the weather in Slovenia, we went optimistical true Karavanke tunnel. The weather was nice except high temperatures (around 15°C). We wormed up, than we had to wait till sun went down. Bizi had some problems in stand start of Driving at low tide 7c, but latter he managed to stay on jug and finally climbed it. Also Andro was very close. It was his second time bouldering outside, but anyway he sent one really hard slab graded 7a. I tried Pluto direct, Marmelade(broken hold) and Emotional landscapes but without success(way too hot). The only thnig that was posible for today, was boulder without name (called it: Alligator direct 8a+) which has same start as all alligators with straight up finish.

Emotional landscapes, photo: Andro 

 Alligator direct 8a+, photo: Andro


torek, 03. april 2012

Fontainebleau 2012

Hello there!

Now it's time for me, to share my climbing stories with you my friends!

Becouse I just have opened this page I decided to start with a trip from Font, which I spent with Slovenia team. I'll try to be short, so I'll just publish some of my hardest ascents and comment them.

Gourmandise raccourci (8a+), photo: Klemen Bečan


 All started with getting used on sandstone and magnificant shapes of it(slopers,bad footholds,...). So we were just climbing easy stuff up to 7b+. In one 7a+ we were all defeated when Maja sent it like nothing. All the guys we needed so many tries to maintain the honor and on the end, few of us finally finished it. For the weekend we were climbing in Bas Cuvier and around. We also had kind of competition with Franch team, where I showed good performance and took 3th place (the best Slovenian). On Tuesday we were back to Cuvier Rempart where I had some unfinished business. It was a little wet, but soon become good enough to show what I'm able to climb. The first 8a (Le Grand Angle du Font) it was dry I tried and after 5 minutes I was on the top of it. Then I went down to another 8a+ (Gourmandise raccourci) which I couldn't send few days before, but this day I had no barriers(frist go that day). I did all the moves in Kheops in 5 minutes, but than  I cut my finger on the starting crimp. Next day we spent in Rocher cailleau where I flashed 7c (Vandale), in few tries sent 7c+ (Coeur d'Alien) and than in second go, the same boulder from the sit, which is 8a+ ( Ventricule gauche). On the same day started to rain, but we decied to find sector Recloses, so the next day we could come back. I haven't flashed 8a for long time now, so I was really psyched to flash 8a (Opium). I tried it after Klemen and suddenly, I was on the top of it. Good vibes I transferred to neighboring 8a+(b) (Narcotic), which I sent on second go. Also I showed a good shape earlier in the morning, when I sent 8a+ (Gecko) third go, which I couldn't do last year. I also did all the moves from a sit(project for next year). Also 7c (Alea Jacta est), wasn't problem for me, so I flashed it. For the end of a trip, I climbed few easier, but very nice boulders in Buthiers and I lost my sunglasses. Ok, that's all about this trip. So join me for next stories!

Video clip from: