sreda, 16. marec 2016

Magic month

It's incredible how combining outdoor and indoor climbing effects on my strengths. I train with my team approx. 2-3 times per week, other days I try to spend on rocks. When I go outdoors the sessions are not so long, but I'm really trying to climb on very hard things. And because I don't train too much on plastic, my mind is very calm. This is why I had such an incredible month. After my last trip to Switzerland I focused more on a specific route in Mišja peč and after few working days on it I was able to do one of the rare ascent in specific route called Za staro kolo in majhnega psa 8c+.

After that I found some free days and I decided to go back to Ticino. My goal was to try Ninja skills 8b+ for max 2 days and if the weather stays good maybe some tries in some other hard stuff. So on my first day I warmed up in Ninja worrier 7c+ (flash) and I was able to do all the moves in Ninja skills. Even better! I climbed it from the second move. Unfortunately I had to leave it for the next day. Because I was trying very hard on it, my skin was very bad so I just couldn't do it my first go. Actually I spent few desperate tries and at the end put my self into a sending mode and crushed it.

 With Klančnik we went down to Chironico and decided to spend the last hours of daylight. We occupied The crack line 8b. Even though we were both tired I did a very good try on it and slipped from the last hold. There was still daylight... "OK! Let's try Second life!". We moved there, Klančnik checked out the moves and I sent it on my first go (tried it few years ago). To me it felt like 7c or so, even though the grade is 8a+.

Here are the clips from Za star kolo and Ninja skills: