nedelja, 12. julij 2015

Das ist nicht kar tako

Slowly Kruder turns into a alpine climber. This time I sent one  of the "hardest" Slovenian multi pitch routes called "Das ist nicht kar tako". As usually in the mountains, the biggest problems to me was a hike up to the walls. Because to the house in a valley of Tamar is a dirt road, me and Alpi (Bojan Hribernik) decided to go there by bikes. It still took us about 20-30 minutes, but it was worth it on the way back. From there on you still have to walk for another hour and a half and also climb some easy stuff to get to the first pitch. From there you start immediately with a vertical 55 meters of solid 6b climbing, where I was the leading one. After that another 55 meters 6b with an easy boulder crux in between. Next pitch was supposed to be the hardest, with a 7b+ grade. I on sighted it and I think it deserves just 7a+ or may be 7b, because it's very short and a bit overhanging. From there on, there were another 4 pitches of 6b- 6c vertical climbing and finally I was standing under the last hard pitch of the route. I gave everything to on sight it, but the route won the battle. After 25 meters of slab climbing, I fell on the last crux on a very delicate slab. When I figured it out, I came down to the anchor, took some 10 minutes of rest and I was back again. With all my power I have from bouldering I did it up to the crux again and again with some bouldering skills did the last slaby crux as a real slab master. Comparing to the first hard pitch, this one is harder for sure. So I think first one is more like 7a+ and this one 7b (or maybe even 7b and 7b+).  Alpi was leading the last 6b+ pitch and scared shit out of me when falling. I thought I'll fail it too, because I was already tired and I felt a bit cold. Also the pitch was a bit crumble. So Alpi somehow made it to the top and I was following. With such a huge motivation to send the whole thing, I turned on bouldering mode again and did it without any fears. This time the way back was so much easier than the last time in multi pitch climbing. We took some 6 abseils and than the descent on the scree. As I said, the way back from the house was also so much easier with the bikes. It felt so good when we made it back to the car, knowing that I sent alpine route that caused some problems even to some good Slovenian alpinists.

my suggestions for the grades are: L1: 6b+ (6c), L2: 6b, L3: 7a+ (7b), L4: 6c (6c+), L5: 6c, L6: 6a+ (6b), L7: 6b, L8: 7b (7b+), L9: 6c

during abseils

me after a send, under the route

me and my loyal partner Alpi

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