sreda, 26. november 2014

Story from Finland

This story is unfortunately about to end quite soon. But I must say that the last month that I spent here in Helsinki was amazing. Surrounded with such a nice people and crazy looking landscapes, makes you wanna stay or even live here.

So, my main purpose to came here, was route setting in Isatais open and to coach my friend Henna. She gave me a nice warm place to stay and I tried to give her best training sessions, so she can complete her goals. First thanks goes to her, cause without her, my trip to Finland would never happen and second, I have to thanks Niina and Anssi for hosting me and taking me to the rocks in this  cold, winter conditions.

My main goal about climbing here, was to climb this very famous and nice looking line, called Globalist. When I first tried it this time, I thought it's gonna be piece of cake, but than on the same day, I got a split on my finger. It wasn't painful or anything, it was just pain in the ass, cause this crimper where I got a cut, is very delicate. In the hope, the skin is gonna grow, I was keep trying it and split it every time I tried it. There was a day, when I did it in two parts, but the conditions didn't let me do it after that. So I decided I'm gonna try something else, something dry and not so friction dependent. Quite only possible line to try around here, was Hypergravity 8b, where you have to walk for 45 minutes and you can only warm up on this line. On the first day, there was some snow already, but I was still able to do all the moves. Small amounts of training in last month, made me feel weak after first few moves, so I couldn't do it on first day. I rested for a day and on my last climbing day here, I managed to sent it. It was perfect end of day, cause I did it in night session, than we had a proper beer with Anssi and of course sauna for the end.
There was also a day, when we went to a small crag in Sipoo, where I climbed One for Sorrow (7c+/8a) and managed to do the first ascent of this beautiful arete on the left. I named it Level up and with the crux on the top, I think it deserves 7b(e5) grade. I also flashed One love 7c(+) in Globalist block.

Tomorrow, my trip is continuing to my last competition of this season to Stockholm (SWE), for La sportiva legends only. This is going to be my last contact with bouldering this year, cause it's been really physically exhausting doing it all year long. I'll do my best and I hope, I'll have some extra powers left to make this competition perfect.

Hypergravity, photo: Anssi Laatikainen


One for Sorrow(right), Level up (left)

Level up

Jos of  Finnish winter 

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