sreda, 18. junij 2014

First ascent of In time, 8c+/9a

In 2011 I bolted the first route in local crag Sopota. It was the most obvious line and in the fall, I managed to do the first ascent. So we got first, very hard route, named The secret, 8c. One year later, we bolted 4 more lines. For one we were hoping it's gonna be easier one and the other 3 looked really hard. So Izi were trying his project and I was trying mine. I couldn't solve the first crux, but I was able to do the moves in upper part. First few moves were so hard, that I would grade it as 8b+ boulder problem. I was trying very hard, but I couldn't connect upper part either. So unfortunately the next year, I rebolted first two bolts and made it more possible. I believe, the a new start is harder for some people, cause you only have to do one really big dyno. If I compare it to some 8a dynos in Rocklands, I would say, this one might be even harder. So you can still try the harder version, if you want. I was preparing for the World cups, later I was competing so unfortunately I didn't have so much time to work only on this project. After bouldering season I had more time and I came quite colse to it. And again, I had a battle with time, cause I left to Rocklands in July. I came back very tired, injured and fat. So I spent all the fall in Mišja peč to get some endurance and lose some weight. Again, this spring I had to prepare for the World cups, so I only spent few days in it. Just one day, before I went to first World cup in China, I fell on the very last hard move. After that I only visited it once, but conditions were really bad. And finally, on 15.6. I came there with our team coach Roman and few friends and I managed to send it first try. I can't describe my feeling, but I can say I felt pretty awsome, when I realised, I finally made it.

Cause of the constant battle with time, I named it In time. I personally grade it 8c+, but I know this route is very specific and for a lot of route climbers almost impossible, so I put 8c+/9a. Maybe I',m not realistic, so feel free to upgrade it, or just tell me that's all just bull shit and it's just another normal 8c+ (I spent at least 100 tries in it).

Here it's also a video from it:

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