No matter the weather Neža, Eva, Bizi and I went to Zillertal for a 3 days trip. On thuesday we arrived there in the afternoon and immediately started to climb in Bachhexe sector. I wormed up in surrounding boulders and soon decided to give it a on sight try in Ghetto superstar. I really didn't expect that I'll on sight first 8a+ I'm gonna try here. And here we go again with another 8a+ on sight in pocket. I talked to a local guy there and he said it's hard 8a+ and I thought so too. After he told me all the moves in Land der Hammer 8b/b+, so I tried to flash it. Unfortunately I couldn't hear what he said, when I was on the last move, so I fell with a lot of power left. Second try I sent it. Next day it was a big sending day. Neža climbed two 6c boulders and after she did jump which is graded 7a+. But I was so sad for Bizi, cuz he was so close to his first 8a+ boulder. He climbed stand strat of it- Sundance Kid- 7b+ which I flashed and later I sent it first go from the sit. Sundance sit could be my first flashed 8a+, but unfortunately I did stand start before. Later I sent Schimpansenbaby- 8a+, which I could also flash, but I slipped from the last move. I needed 5 minutes for this one and another 5 minutes for Black Beauty, graded 8a. For the last day we save some energy(not much), so I did El Gauhara- 8a in 3rd go. Bizi did all the moves and Eva climbed her first route in gneiss. Than rain sent us home.
On monday I climbed the best slab in Slovenia (Jurgovo). I named it Arterija and the grade is around 7b+. It's 5 meters high, but worth to try!
I'm sorry there are no photos :(
sobota, 21. julij 2012
torek, 3. julij 2012
Jurgovo 2
Mona Liza 7c
ponedeljek, 2. julij 2012
Slovenian Font- Jurgovo
Not so big, but very beautiful place was found few years ago on Slovenian only gneis mountain chain Pohorje. I found few lines up to 7b, but this year Žužel showed me the real shit up there. It's about 7m high boulder with lines up to 7b+ and some projects. Mighty project in the middle of boulder was touched by Klančnik and company few years ago, but unfortunatley it wasn't climbed. Of course, we had to try it, but even we were defeated. I couldn't reach huge sloper with other hand, probably cuz of the realy high temperatures. But I managed to do all the other moves, so I hope some day it will be cooler and I'll be able to send it. We also tried new cleaned line left of it and we did few moves. This one is more technical and a bit higher.
Few days later I flashed new line which was opened by Izi and I grade it 7b+ Explosion time. After, when the sun went down, also Izi and Bizi were succeeded. I hope we'll be back soon with more Pads and power.
Few days later I flashed new line which was opened by Izi and I grade it 7b+ Explosion time. After, when the sun went down, also Izi and Bizi were succeeded. I hope we'll be back soon with more Pads and power.
maybe even 8a
mighty project (photo: Tomaž Žužel)
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